The Royal Oak Hotel in Penola offers open fires and boutique beers on tap

Sometimes in your travels, chance leads you along the road to a little spot that wiggles its way unexpectedly into your fondest memories. It can be almost impossible to pinpoint what is so endearing about these places.

Winter is an ideal time to sample some of Australia’s finest fare, especially when paired with a famed wine destination…

Foodies with all manner of taste buds and budgets can find some incredible dining options during their winter sojourn, from woodfire pizzas to chickpea koftas and award-winning sausages.

Here’s a selection that we think should definitely go on your food lovers’ bucket list.

COONAWARRA/PENOLA, SA

For a place that’s a mere speck on the map midway between Adelaide and Melbourne, Coonawarra is a very popular tourism destination – largely because of its reputation for producing some of Australia’s finest red wines.

Coonawarra may be flat, and remote, but it remains a magnet for wine lovers throughout the year thanks to a series of annual food and wine festivals that include After Dark (April), Cellar Dwellers (June), and Coonawarra Cabernet Celebrations (October).

Penola has a population of 1,200 and Coonawarra itself, just down the road, is home to just a couple of hundred.

Across the road from Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate you’ll find Fodder Food/Wine, run by former  Rymill winemaker John Innes and his wife Melissa, who also operate Ottelia Wines.

In addition to a great wine list, Fodder is also known for producing some of the best pizzas in South Australia – including tomato, Asiago cheese, pancetta and roasted capsicum; or tomato, mozzarella, ham, Felino salami, mushrooms and olives. There is a house rule of ‘no chicken or pineapple on pizzas’.

You can also try a ‘nibbles plate’ of goat’s curd and garlic custard, zucchini pickle, baba ghanoush, sweet and sour mushrooms and shaved Ventricina salami; or tortellini of wood-roasted pumpkin, goat’s curd and garden herb oil, ricotta gnocchi, sage and burnt butter sauce; or prawns with garlic, chilli and Nonya sauce.

More info: www.fodder.net.au 

In Penola, the venerable Royal Oak Hotel was taken over in August 2018 by John Rymill, a member of one of the region’s most famous wine families, and his partner Mary Harvey. The hotel building dates back to the 1800s.

“We want to focus on the beautiful building that this is, and move forward from there; good service, booze and food,” Rymill says. Think dishes such as gincured trout or warming schnitzels after a day of wine tastings.

For anyone looking for a fine dining experience, Pipers of Penola is run by Simon Bowen, a member of another of the region’s winemaking families. It is open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday.

More info: www.pipersofpenola.com.au

FAST FACTS - COONAWARRA/PENOLA, SA

In addition to over 20 cellar doors in the Coonawarra/Penola region, the town of Penola is home to a heritage museum devoted to the life of Australia’s first saint, Mary MacKillop. 

More info: www.penola.org

Where to stay: Coonawarra Bush Holiday Park, also known as Coonawarra Cabins and Coonawarra Caravan Park, has a range of cabins, glamping and ‘bubble’ options as well as unpowered sites. Dogs are welcome.

More info: www.cbhp.com.au  

Penola Caravan Park is within easy walking distance of town and offers options from simple powered sites to two-bedroom cabins. More info: www.penolacaravanpark.com.au

CMCA RV Park Penola. John Street, Penola. 

More info: https://rvparks.cmca.net.au/Home/RVParkDetailedView?siteUid=e4b875b9-f91d-4cc4-9314-084b662e4bcb

A touch of refinement at Liberte in the old London Hotel in Albany

GIPPSLAND, VIC

This rural region of Victoria is a popular getaway destination for Melbourne folk, with bush and beach locations. The biggest population hubs include Traralgon, Moe, Warragul, Morwell and Sale, with tourism destinations such as Phillip Island, Wilsons Promontory and Gippsland Lakes.

There are several country hotels offering warming winter dishes, including Tinamba Hotel, which is renowned for its locally sourced produce and great food.

Established in 1874, Tinamba Hotel has been run by locals Brad Neilson and Damien Gannon for the past decade.

Menu specials include pan-fried ricotta gnocchi and a bouillabaisse fish stew. The soup of the day is popular with locals, as are the locally farmed steaks.

More info: www.tinambahotel.com.au

Far grander is the Criterion Hotel in Sale, with a history dating back to 1865. The hotel is revered for its pub fare showcasing local produce including beef from Bairnsdale (68km away), lamb from Stratford (17km away) and seafood from lovely Lakes Entrance (105km away).

Signature dishes include the Cri Parmy, a crumbed chicken breast with double smoked ham; Napoli, Maffra cheddar, beer-battered steak, fries and salad; or a 400g Gippsland rib-eye with fondant potato, local beans, heirloom carrots and red wine jus.

More info: www.crihotel.com.au

The Fish Creek Hotel (1939) is an imposing Art Deco building notable for a giant fish sculpture by Colin Suggett mounted on the roof. On cold days, sample the hotel’s specially blended fortified wines all aged onsite in small oak barrels from Rutherglen in Victoria, Australia’s finest fortified wine region.

More info: www.fishcreekhotel.com.au

FAST FACTS - GIPPSLAND, VIC

The town of Walhalla was once a thriving gold-mining community home to 4,000 people and one of the richest towns in Australia. Today, the town has a population of 20 permanent residents. The picturesque alpine village is surrounded by a national park, lush forests and fern gullies and is a popular tourism destination. Gippsland is named after former NSW Governor, George Gipps. 

More info: www.visitvictoria.com/regions/gippsland 

Where to stay: The riverfront Franklin River Reserve Campground offers free camping and has a new amenities block. It is just a five-minute stroll from the hamlet of Toora. 

More info: www.southgippsland.vic.gov.au

Spoon Bay campsite has sites suitable for caravans that will accommodate up to six people and one vehicle, but all campsites are unpowered. 

More info: www.parkweb.vic.gov.au

Inside the grand Criterion Hotel

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS, NSW

The Southern Highlands is one of the fastest-emerging gourmet regions in New South Wales and is just 90 minutes south-west of Sydney.

The region is centred on the towns of Mittagong, Bowral, Moss Vale, Bundanoon, Robertson and Berrima, and can be chilly in winter. It is known for its many gourmet pie producers and hosts the annual ‘Pie FEST’ each June (www.pietime.com.au)

The Robertson Pie Shop boasts its products are made fresh daily on the premises and use the finest ingredients. The pie menu includes steak and kidney, beef, bacon and cheese, chicken, leek and Camembert, and beef bourguignon (www.robertsonpieshop.com.au).

The Heatherbraes Pies outlet at Sutton Forest, which is open every day except Christmas Day, has a red lentil curry for vegans (red lentils, potatoes, carrots, onions and peas simmered in an Indian curry sauce), as well as Bushman’s (chopped beef, onions and bacon, simmered with carrots, parsnips and mushrooms) and Digger’s (chopped beef simmered in garlic and onions) (www.heatherbraespies.com.au)

More info: www.southernhighlands.com.au/events/pietime/pie-trail

FAST FACTS - SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS, NSW

The Bong Bong Picnic Races attract thousands of visitors to a six-race program conducted at Wyeera, east of Bowral.

More info: www.bongbongprc.com.au

Li Sun Exotic Mushrooms is situated in a disused railway tunnel between Mittagong and Bowral. Tours by appointment. 

More info: www.lisunexoticmushrooms.com.au

Where to stay: Moss Vale Village Caravan Park is set on 10 acres of gardens with an amenities block, powered and unpowered sites, and spaces for large motorhomes. The local bus service also has a stop here. 

More info: www.mossvalevillagecaravanpark.com.au

Mittagong Caravan Park is near bushwalks, a golf club, all-weather tennis courts, a sports field, indoor basketball courts and gym, and is set in natural rock and bush surrounds. 

More info: www.mittagongcaravanpark.com.au

Channel your inner Parisian at Liberte

GREAT SOUTHERN, WA

Many visitors to Western Australia gravitate to Margaret River, which means they can overlook the many charms of the remote Great Southern region.

That’s a pity because it offers fabulous beaches, awe-inspiring old-growth forests, whale and dolphin-watching opportunities and history galore, plus dozens of gourmet options.

The region is huge, with five wine sub-regions: Frankland River, Porongurup, and the Albany/Denmark/Mount Barker triangle. Albany, the region’s biggest town, is a five-hour direct drive from Perth. Many locals drive for long periods to grab a bite to eat at remote Maleeya’s Thai Café, set in a Porongurup bush setting. This cosy cabin serves authentic and hearty Thai food.

Maleeya Form, originally from Chiang Mai, and her husband Peter serve a delicious tom yum goong (spicy prawn soup) and Thai beef curry with kaffir limes. Lemongrass, coriander, galangal, 20 varieties of chillies and other herbs and spices are all grown on the property. Peter runs a bamboo and palm nursery on site. 

More info: (https://maleeya.com.au/thai-cafe/) 

For a more refined experience, award-winning Liberte is a Paris inspired bar in the old London  Hotel in Albany that serves up Vietnamese-accented dishes on its bar menu, including crispy chicken bao with hoisin, slaw, sriracha mayo and toasted sesame; fried whitebait with smoked chilli mayo; salt and pepper squid with samphire tartare, finger lime and dill; or roast pumpkin dumplings, pumpkin seed brittle and ‘secret’ dipping sauce. 

More info: (http://libertealbany.com.au).

The Albany Farmers Markets are held every Saturday from 8am to 12 noon and are the ideal place to sample fresh produce from local farms and take them back to your camping base. The regional fruits and vegetables are outstanding.

FAST FACTS - GREAT SOUTHERN, WA

The award-winning National Anzac Centre is located within Albany’s heritage-listed Princess Royal Fortress and overlooks the harbour from which over 41,000 men and women departed Australia for the Great War. 

More info: www.nationalanzaccentre.com.au

Great Southern Truffles sells a range of gourmet truffle products and is open daily to visitors. 

More info: www.greatsoutherntruffles.com.au

Where to stay: BIG4 Middleton Beach in Albany has free Wi-Fi, a solar-heated pool and a hot tub in addition to a range of accommodation options. 

More info: www.big4.com.au

HUON VALLEY, TAS

The Huon Valley is the southernmost government area in Australia and life here moves at a slow pace. It is only a 30-50 minute drive from Hobart.

The main townships are Huonville, Franklin, Cygnet, Geeveston and Dover, and it’s the region where a myriad of orchards gave Tasmania its ‘Apple Isle’ moniker. Today, it is home to several cideries that offer safe havens from the cold winter days:  Willie Smith’s, Frank’s Cider and Pagan Cider.

Willie Smith’s hosts the annual Huon Valley Mid-Winter Festival at Ranelagh Showgrounds. This pagan-inspired event features local food and wines, beers and ciders, massive bonfires,  folk music, dancing and storytelling as well as the burning of a giant wooden sculpture.

Outside of festival time, Willie Smith’s Apple Shed is billed as ‘the hottest hut in the Huon Valley’ courtesy of its craft ciders, locally sourced lunches, and plenty of space to sit and chat, plus live music in the evenings.

The menu features roasted Tasmania walnuts; chickpea koftas and spiced fried cauliflower; or toasties including roast vegetable and Red Cow organic feta. For a real winter treat try the smoked ham hock and white bean cassoulet.

If you are lucky there might be some fire cider available – a concoction of fresh ginger, chilli and garlic, sriracha, apple cider  vinegar, turmeric, horseradish, onion, oranges, lemons and organic apples. Also try the apple brandy distilled on site. (www.williesmiths.com.au/apple-shed).

Frank’s Cider is a sixthgeneration family business in the former St John’s Church Hall, in the waterside hamlet of Franklin. It hosts live music and comedy nights and serves hearty seasonal dishes including a Rueben’s sandwich beef and cider pie or warm apple crumble in a relaxed, rustic ambience with historic photos on the walls.

More info: www.frankscider.com.au 

At Pagan Cider, the onsite Pandemonium Café food van serves up warming waffles and crepes but check ahead for opening times.

More info: www.pagancider.com.au 

FAST FACTS - HUON VALLEY, TAS

MasterChef finalist Sarah Clare is about to open a new restaurant, Isla, in her hometown of Cygnet. Clare’s father, Ian, runs a pottery studio in the town. 

Hastings Caves and Thermal Springs are a 90-minute drive south of Hobart. Tours are available with a Parks and Wildlife Service guide to explore the spectacular subterranean formations including flowstone, stalactites, columns, shawls, straws, stalagmites and the unusual helictites. Visitors can also swim in the thermal swimming pool, fed by thermalspring water. 

More info: www.parks.tas.gov.au 

Where to stay: At Huonville try Huon Valley Caravan Park for powered and unpowered sites. CMCA RV Park Geeveston, 7 Brady Street, Geeveston.

More info: www.huonvalleycaravanpark.com.au, https://rvparks.cmca.net.au/Home/RVParkDetailedView?siteUid=c019921b-4f81-4c27-a814-7a3d802c57f0 

There’s also some beautiful spots at the more remote Rivers Edge Wilderness Camping and RV with powered and unpowered sites plus communal facilities.

More info: www.riversedgecamping.com.au

Try a fire cider at Willie Smith’s Apple Shed

FIVE MORE TO TRY GRIFFITH, NSW

Zecca restaurant has been a big hit with Griffith locals and visitors, serving authentic Italian cuisine with a modern touch. House-made pastas and breads are specialities and most of the produce is sourced locally when possible. The name Zecca means ‘mint’ in Italian – a nod to the building’s history as a branch of the Rural Bank.

The owners say: “We are working together with local farmers and producers to showcase the best of what Griffith and the surrounding area has to offer.”

More info: www.zeccagriffith.com.au

CENTRAL COAST, NSW

Head from the beaches of the Central Coast to Gosford to sample the new Bon Pavilion in Gosford. It is a new culinary venture from chef Sean Connolly, which is owned by John Singleton and managed by Bells at Killcare owners Brian and Karina Barry.

Bon Pavilion has a family-friendly steak and seafood restaurant Bonfire, an espresso bar, private dining and the Bon Bar, all under one roof. Connolly’s menu focuses on ethically sourced produce and premium suppliers – including chicken and prawn pie; the Bon cheese burger with double patty, red Leicester cheese, pickles and French fries; or lamb tomahawk chops with fresh mint sauce.

More info: www.thebonpavilion.com.au

Epicurean delights at Tilbrook Estate in Lenswood

ADELAIDE HILLS, SA

Visitors to Adelaide Hills will get a really close look at the winemaking process when they visit Tilbrook Estate in Lenswood. They might also get to taste some of the region’s best pizzas.

Call ahead to make sure they have fired up the oven, and if you are in luck, try the meat lover’s pizza with chorizo and prosciutto, leg ham and mozzarella, along with tomato sauce, oregano and basil.

More info: www.tilbrookestate.com.au 

Fine wine at Tilbrook Estate

 WAIKERIE, SA

Butcher Nigel Rollbusch is the go-to guy for snags after being named the best bratwurst producer in the country. His Waikerie butcher shop, Rollbusch Quality Meats, took top gong at the national Sausage King Awards in the continental category.

The winning snag is a German-style sausage made from pork and beef, which is sold to local pubs and bakeries. Check them out at New Land Bakery, Waikerie and Loxton hotels, and View Point Café.

RICHMOND, TAS

Recently opened Prospect House in the cool Coal River Valley wine region is owned by the same family which makes Pooley’s Wines. It is a great spot to escape the winter chills with a hearty dinner. 

Head chef Kurstin Berriman’s menu focuses on seasonal and sustainable local produce, much of it sourced from the nearby Coal River Valley. The three-course dinner menu ($85) includes entrees such as eel escabeche or Westhaven goat cheese panna cotta; and main courses may include rare-seared wallaby fillet.

More info: www.prospecthouseprivatehotel.com.au 

Sample the finest Coal River Valley produce at Prospect House

Category: Destinations
Written: Thu 01 Aug 2019
Printed: August, 2019
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