Upper Falls

 In Kakadu's Stone Country, swept atop a rock fortress, is an infinity pool in the sky that's been keeping its waters hidden for six years. Gunlom Falls, in the south-west reaches of Kakadu National Park, reopened its doors to the public in July after a protracted dispute between park management and Traditional Owners.

With the sorry business (troubles) now behind them, the Jaowyn People are again welcoming visitors back to Kakadu's most photogenic waterfall. Made famous in the film Crocodile Dundee, Gunlom Falls has been the poster child for Top End tourism campaigns for generations. And with a new, less arduous walking trail to the top and enhanced facilities, visitors are falling in love with Gunlom all over again.

When I visit, it's three weeks since the reopening and word is well and truly out. Caravans, campers and rooftop tents jostle for shade amongst the pandanus palms; and swimmers drift from the campsite in boardshorts and bikinis, trailing pool noodles. 

Ordinarily, cooling off would entail a gentle five-minute stroll to the plunge pool at the base of the falls. This Eden's lagoon of clear emerald water shadowed by a cathedral rockface, is an enticing spot for a swim. But not today. A rogue croc is on the loose and the pool remains closed while authorities seek to trap and relocate the saltie away from potential tourist prey. Anywhere else, the swim closure would be hugely disappointing; but this is Gunlom and it's the top of the falls that everyone comes to see.

Top water hold of the upper pools

T H E WA L K TO THE TOP POOLS

The newly upgraded trail to the top of Gunlom Falls begins near the entrance to the day use area. The walk is only 570 metres, and I'm told it can be done in 10 minutes. But it's steep and strenuous, so come prepared.

The trail winds through savannah woodland, traversing gravel switchbacks and stone steps before ascending the escarpment via a metal staircase. From here, hikers can enjoy panoramic views across the South Alligator Valley and learn about the three senior Jawoyn men who triumphed in saving Gunlom from uranium mining in the 1980s.

Another 100 metres on, the trail evens out; then sweeps down a staircase on the final leg to the top of the falls. A shaded sandy bank meanders alongside the water where four heavenly pools shimmer between shelves of smooth sandstone – remnants of an ancient inland sea. Upstream, a gentle cascade bursts over a rock wall. Downstream, water pools on the clifftop, framing a jaw-dropping view across the valley where the falls plunge 85 metres into the plunge pool below.

Families picnic in the shade, youths sunbake on rocks, and swimmers float with their bellies pressed to the sky. I join them, starting with a shoulder massage beneath the cascades upstream, before plucking up the courage to venture to the waterfall's edge. When I haul myself out onto the rock shelf by the third pool, I expect to be staring down into the abyss; but there's a lower clutch of concealed rock pools. I clamber carefully down the rocks, past paddling toddlers and sunbaking girls in bikinis, and tiptoe as close to the edge as I dare. Two young blokes are sprawled out on the lip of the falls and my heart is in my mouth watching them lounge like lizards perilously close to the edge.

Plunge pool

A LONG JOURNEY TO REOPENING

At the bottom plunge pool, I join ranger Josh Hunter, a Jawoyn man of the Wurrkbarbar clan who shares cultural stories of Gunlom during free walking tours. Hunter's grandfather, Peter Jatbula, was one of the three Jawoyn men instrumental in returning Gunlom to Traditional Owners. He tells me burial sites occupy 75 per cent of the land here; and the powerful creation ancestor Bolung, the Rainbow Serpent, rests beneath the waterfall.

Hunter is happy visitors are returning to Gunlom for the first time since 2019, when the site was closed after a walking path to the upper falls disturbed a sacred men's site. The matter went all the way to the high court, with Parks Australia eventually fined a record $200,000 for breaching the NT's sacred site laws. The path has since been reconfigured and new interpretive signage explains the cultural significance of this special place.

Hopefully the lower plunge pool will reopen soon too, before the wet season rains return and Gunlom is again off-limits to visitors.

JOURNEY PLANNER

Gunlom Falls is 330 kilometres south-east of Darwin, off an unsealed road. A four-wheel drive is recommended, and you need a parks pass to visit. The large campground is well maintained with flat sites and a designated area for generators. There are no bookings, and camping is on a first-in, first-served basis, with fees collected on site by the campground manager. Facilities include showers, toilets and barbecues (in the day use area), and campfires are permitted.

MORE INFORMATION

• book.parksaustralia.gov.au

• kakadutourism.com

The writer was a guest of Tourism Northern Territory.

Vistas across the South Alligator Valley

Category: Destinations
Written: Wed 01 Oct 2025
Printed: October, 2025
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