ULURU

No natural feature is more identifiably Australian than Uluru. The world’s largest sandstone monolith is estimated to be half a billion years old and rises 350m above the surrounding desert plains like a high-tin bread loaf.

First-time visitors to Central Australia can be surprised by the distances between attractions, often expecting Uluru to be on the doorstep of Alice Springs. It is, in fact, a 480km drive that will take most of the day, particularly if you pause along the way to see the tabletop mountain often mistaken for Uluru, Mt. Conner (also known as Attila). On the plus side, it’s a sealed road from start to finish.

Walking or cycling around the 9.5km base path have recently become very popular activities. Bike hire is available from Outback Cycling for a fee. Allow two to three hours to do the ride justice, or longer for the walk, stopping at the Mutitjulu Waterhole and Kantju Gorge.

Watch the colours of Uluru change as the sun sets

You’ll definitely want to witness at least one sunrise or sunset at Uluru. Talinguru Nyakunytjaku is generally considered to be the best place to watch the sunrise, with Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) visible in the distance. The car and bus sunset spots are on the opposite side of the rock, closer to the park entrance gate. Arrive early at either place to secure your spot as they’re guaranteed to be crowded. Don’t be afraid to wander further from your vehicle for some solitude though. And you can always reverse the order by visiting Talinguru Nyakunytjaku at sunset, for example, when the imposing outline of Uluru will be silhouetted against the setting sun.

There’s really only one place to stay when you visit Uluru (or Kata Tjuta) and that’s Yulara Village. Years back the campground was located right next to the rock. But once the park was handed back to its Anangu Traditional Owners in October 1985, visitor accommodation was changed to outside the park boundaries in hotels, serviced apartments or the  campground — all budgets and tastes are catered for.

The campground has powered and unpowered sites, as well as two-bedroom cabins. There are designated areas for caravans, campervans, RVs, and camper trailers supplemented by a range of services and facilities, including a swimming pool, a playground, and barbecues. A supermarket, post office, newsagency, bank, and food court are all within walking distance.

If the campground is full — which happens often — Curtin Springs is able to handle the overflow. Located 100km from the park, it is a privately owned cattle station with a roadhouse, pub, and campground.

A hike through Kata Tjuta will take your breath away

KATA TJUTA (THE OLGAS)

Since these 36 sandstone domes are located inside the same World Heritage-listed park as Uluru, Yulara will still act as your base camp. Three-day national park passes can be purchased online or at the park entry station.

The domes of Kata Tjuta may not be instantly as recognisable as Uluru, but they are equally spectacular, to the point where many visitors rate them more highly than their internationally lauded neighbour. Soaring as high as 550m and spread out across a 20sqkm area, the Pitjantjatjara name of Kata Tjuta means ‘many heads’. Once you see them, you’ll understand why.

Like Uluru, there are sunrise and sunset viewing spots and if you use these locations appropriately, your photos will have more punch than if you visit during the middle of the day. For a different perspective, especially if you’re running short on time, hike up the sand dune at the Uluru bus sunset viewing spot for a silhouetted view of Kata Tjuta, which one bystander described as being “like Homer Simpson lying flat on his back” when I last visited.

There are two hiking routes between the domes, and both are worth doing. Walpa Gorge is the shorter of the two, measuring 2.6km long. At 7.4km, the Valley of the Winds is more challenging and not recommended for people with mobility issues. It can take as long as four hours to complete, with drinking water stations placed thoughtfully along the way. If that’s too far, you can always turn back at the Karu lookout, just 2.2km from the car park.

Try out a camel ride tour

WATARRKA (KINGS CANYON)

Who doesn’t remember The Adventures of Priscilla: Queen of the Desert, the surprise hit movie following the plight of three Sydney drag queens who travel in a broken down bus to perform their unique style of cabaret in Lasseter’s Casino in Alice Springs? Written into the storyline was a scene where the trio would stand on top of Uluru in full costume. The producers were unfortunately unable to obtain permission to film the scene on Uluru and Watarrka stepped in as a last-minute substitute.

The majesty of Watarrka is best seen on foot. Tackle the 6km-long Rim Walk in a clockwise direction, starting with a heart-pumping climb up a steep stairway. Once you’re at the top you’ll have ticked off the toughest part of the hike. With just two exceptions, it’s mostly flat from there as you cross the fractured sandstone plateau of the George Gill Ranges.

The Red Centre embodies the harsh beauty of Australia

Highlights along the walk include spectacular viewpoints from the top of the canyon’s sheer cliff faces, a natural fissure known as Priscilla’s Crack, the weathered domes of the Lost City, and the Garden of Eden — a permanent oasis nurturing prehistoric cycads and tree ferns. Keep an eye out here for shy yellow-footed rock wallabies, particularly at either end of the day.

It’s best to allow three to four hours to complete the hike. Follow the blue track markers to avoid getting lost, carry plenty of drinking water, and be sure to wear sunhats and sunscreen. Oh, and start before 9am on days when temperatures are forecast to exceed 36 degrees.

Sound too hard? No problem. There’s also a flat, easy hike along the canyon floor, following the course of Kings Creek.

Camping is prohibited in the Watarrka National Park. Kings Canyon Resort is the closest option. Facilities include bars and restaurants, convenience stores, and a petrol station. Kings Creek Station, 36km away, is your next best bet.

Vivid red/orange rock of the Australian outback

MACDONNELL RANGES

The MacDonnell Ranges (known as Tjoritja in Arrente) extend roughly 300km from east to west and are one of the world’s oldest mountain ranges. Once believed to have reached Himalayan heights, they have been whittled down by time. Today, the highest point is Mt. Sonder, the 1380m peak marking the wester most point of the 230kmlong Larapinta Trail. Its summit has become a magnet for hikers setting out before the crack of dawn to catch the sunrise.

Alice Springs lies almost smack bang in the middle of the ranges, nestled in a gap that has been carved out by the Todd River which, ironically, remains dry for most of the year. Come here on the third weekend in August and you can join in the Henley-on-Todd celebrations — a whacky, anything-goes regatta featuring ‘boat races’ on the dry riverbed.

The Western Macs have a greater number of natural attractions and are certainly more popular with visitors than their eastern counterpart. Camping is allowed in the western half of the Western MacDonnell Ranges National Park, with basic facilities at Ellery Creek Big Hole and Redbank Gorge. The two camping areas at Redbank Gorge — Woodland and Ridgetop — have toilets, fire pits, and picnic tables. Ormiston Gorge is more established, with shower facilities, flush toilets, gas barbecues, and separate campgrounds for schools and large groups. RVs are allowed at all three areas.

Overnight visitors are expected to bring their own water supplies and fireplaces exist at some sites. Most sites offer free gas barbecues. Fires are prohibited at Serpentine Gorge but allowed at the Serpentine Chalet Ruins campground, while Glen Helen Lodge has RV sites.

The Red Centre is a photographer’s dream

A Mereenie Loop pass is required to travel this route and is available from the Alice Springs Tourist Information Centre, Glen Helen Resort, and Kings Canyon Resort. Most of the sites are accessible by 2WD. Exceptions are Serpentine, Redbank, and Roma Gorges, as well as Gosse Bluff and the Finke Gorge National Park. The Finke 2 Mile Campground near Glen Helen Gorge is also 4WD-only.

Depending on your timing it can get very hot here, but various swimming holes — Ellery Creek Big Hole, Ormiston Gorge, Redbank Gorge, and Glen Helen Gorge — are a saving grace.

The two closest attractions to Alice Springs are Simpsons Gap and Standley Chasm. Both are popular outings on day trips. Simpsons Gap is broader with a sandy creek bed. Once again, keep an eye out for yellow-tailed rock wallabies. For something different, you can cycle along a sealed 17km bike track that starts at Flynn’s Grave, 7km out of Alice Springs. Standley Chasm is narrow slot canyon that is best seen during the middle of the day when the sun manages to penetrate the canyon floor.

The road from Alice Springs through the Eastern MacDonnell Ranges is sealed as far as the Ross River Homestead, where RV camping is available at a cost per night. An unsealed road that may be impassable after rains continues on to the Arltunga Historical Reserve, with 4WDs recommended to reach Ruby Gap further along the Binns Track.

There are ample picnic destinations to rest

Emily and Jesse Gaps will be the first stopover points, where you can see large rock paintings depicting the dreaming of the Yeperenye, or caterpillar.

Trephina Gorge is 85km east of Alice Springs and accessible to all vehicles. The last 5km of road is unsealed. The nature park contains a network of walking trails and the largest ghost gum in Central Australia. Swimming is possible in natural waterholes where native budgerigars come to drink. Campgrounds with pit toilets, picnic tables, drinking water, communal fire pits, and gas barbecues are provided at Trephina Bluff, Trephina Gorge and the Panorama Campgrounds. Fees apply. Caravans are allowed.

You can see ancient petroglyphs and rare plants in the 4WDaccessible N’Dhala Gorge. A small, simple bush camp is located close to the entrance to the nature park. Bring your own water and supplies.

High-clearance 4WDs are also required to reach Ruby Gap — popular with campers and walkers, and the site of Central Australia’s first gem rush.

Rainbow Valley is especially spectacular at sunrise and sunset

RAINBOW VALLEY

The freestanding sandstone bluff of Rainbow Valley forms part of the James Range. From the Stuart Highway turn-off to the reserve, 75km south of Alice Springs, it’s a 22km drive east along an unsealed road with occasional sandy patches. For this reason a 4WD is recommended, though not essential. When I was last there, a 2WD would not have had any problems getting in or out.

Camping is permitted in two designated campgrounds. Facilities include communal gas and wood barbecues, picnic tables, and pit toilets. Camping fees apply.

Rainbow Valley is spectacular at any time of the day, but especially around sunrise or sunset when the coloured rock bands reflect a honeyed glow. Ancient petroglyphs and hidden waterholes abound in the surrounding valleys, though you’ll need a local guide to find them; getting lost is easy otherwise. Walking trails skirt the clay pan in front of the bluff to Mushroom Rock behind.

Feel dwarfed by Chambers Pillar

CHAMBERS PILLAR

One of the Red Centre’s hauntingly beautiful sights towers 50m above the surrounding plains. Visiting is strictly limited to 4WDs thanks to deep sand drifts and one particularly steep haul over a rocky ridgeline. The road to the Maryvale turn-off from Alice Springs is unsealed, and after another hour of driving you’ll spy the sandstone pinnacle that pioneering explorer John McDouall Stuart used as a navigational aid during his continental crossings.

Stay in one of two campgrounds with wood fire pits and pit toilets, then climb the stairway to a viewing platform around the base of the pillar. Find graffiti left behind by early explorers who engraved their initials into the sandstone. Whatever you do though, don’t make the mistake of adding your name to the list of visitors — graffiti markings are illegal.

Central Australia is bursting with magnificent sights

Category: Destinations
Written: Sun 01 Aug 2021
Printed: August, 2021
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