The beach at Lombadina by Huey Benjamin

A visit to the Kimberley is hardly complete without a trip up the Dampier Peninsula to the stunning Cape Leveque, which lies just three hours north of the vibrant, yet relaxed, tourist town of Broome.

Dotted along the Cape Leveque Road and extending all the way to One Arm Point, are a series of spectacular camping spots and luxurious, yet affordable, resorts which provide a suitable base for experiencing the Peninsula’s unique natural and cultural heritage.

From dramatic, crimson cliffs of pindan (the name given to the red soil, unique to the south-western Kimberley) to seemingly endless beaches of white sand nestled against a perfectly turquoise coastline, Cape Leveque is a truly remarkable place. If its natural beauty wasn’t already enough, it’s also home to some of the most wonderful, welcoming people you’re likely to meet.

In terms of getting there, the road is part sealed, part dirt, so best experienced during the dry season months (May to October), although we recommend checking the weather forecast and road conditions before setting out. Four-wheel drives are a must when exploring this glorious part of the country, and several of our hosts tell us that fellow travellers tend to leave their caravans in Broome to get the most out of the journey north.

For general information, including accommodation, places to visit, hire cars, chartered flights and road conditions contact the Broome Visitors’ Centre, phone 08 9195 2200 or visit www.broomevisitorcentre.com.au. 

Snapshots from our journey to One Arm Point

The Manari Road

We came to the Manari Road turn off quite soon after our tyres hit the red earth. For the perfect picnic spot, try Wirrkinymirri (Willie Creek) or nearby Nuwirrar (Barred Creek) - both seem to be a favourite with locals in the know. Best not to swim here though, as the region is home to a healthy crocodile population - a reminder that this is wild country, worthy of our respect and admiration.

For those eager for a swim, the Manari Road provides access to numerous exquisite beach fronts, where crimson cliffs give way to gorgeous pink and gold sunsets over the Indian Ocean each and every afternoon. Camping is allowed at traditional camping places along the coastline, albeit not for extended periods of time; for more information about where you can and can’t camp, contact the traditional custodians (Goolarabooloo, see over) and for further information, the Broome Shire Council www.broome.wa.gov.au.

Pindan cliffs at James Price Point by Elise Dalley

The Lurujarri Dreaming Trail 

For those seeking a truly rich encounter with this country (during the dry season) we recommend taking the opportunity to walk the Lurujarri Dreaming Trail (aka Lurujarri Heritage Trail) with the Goolarabooloo traditional custodians. This unique walk, which traces the footsteps of the ancestors, lasts nine days and extends 80 kilometres along the coastline north out of Minyirr (Broome) to Bindingangun (Yellow River). Paddy Roe, who established the trail in the late 1980s, was awarded a Medal of the Order of Australia in honour of his contribution to practical reconciliation in Australia.

As you walk, there is an opportunity to learn more about the various types of mayi (bush foods) that grow in the nationally significant Monsoon Vine Thicket found along the magnificent dune systems, which caress the coastline.

Stories from Bugarregarre (the Dreamtime) are shared over the fire at night and provide a unique opportunity to gain a deeper understanding of the local Aboriginal culture, which remains strong to this very day. Trail coordinator Frans Hoogland explains that the most important aspect of walking the trail is to awaken one’s ‘liyan’ (feeling) and develop a connection with the living country.

For more information and to register your interest for 2014, it is best to contact the Goolarabooloo directly via their website www.goolarabooloo.org.au or the coordinator, Frans, on 0423 817 925.

Further along the Cape - Leveque Road

While Manari Road provides the adventurous soul with plenty to see and experience, there’s much more to do if you have the time. How about a trip to Beagle Bay to see the amazing local church? It was handcrafted by locals using pearl shells from the area.

Several campgrounds are accessible via tracks that branch off the Cape Leveque Road as you drive north towards One Arm Point. The breathtaking Nature’s Hideaway at Middle Lagoon is a popular spot, providing beach huts for the lucky few who get in early.

The nearby Whale Song Café and campground, run by the Munget Community, is the perfect place to enjoy a cuppa and partake in a casual spot of whale watching (a population of humpback whales migrate along this part of the Kimberley coast between July and October every year). Likewise, the beautiful Goombaragin Eco Retreat at Pender Bay offers self-contained chalets, safari tents and campsites perfectly positioned to take in the sunrise, sunset and panoramic views of the coastline. Kathleen and John are wonderful hosts who instantly made us feel at home and were eager to share stories with us over our evening meal.

Pender Bay from Goombaragin by Huey Benjamin 

Lombadina

One of the next stops along the Cape Leveque Road is the community of Lombadina, home to one of the most stunning beaches we’ve ever seen. Pristine white sand dunes lead to a long beach and crystal clear waters perfect for swimming and snorkelling. A kayaking trip out to a nearby lagoon with local guide Robert Sibosado is another great way to experience this sensational location. Another highlight is the Chile Creek community stay, where you can sample some of Roma’s famous chilli mud crab - but make sure to call ahead!

Time spent at One Arm Point passes by far too quickly

Closer to the very top of Cape Leveque, the Aboriginal community of Ardyaloon provides a number of opportunities to gain a deeper understanding of the region’s unique cultural heritage.

One of the most spectacular camping spots can be found at Gambanan. Run by the Davey family, it offers sensational views of the islands situated beyond the tip of Cape Leveque. During the full moon phase, Gambanan is the perfect place to watch the moon rise of an evening as it creates the famous golden ‘staircase to the moon’ effect over the waters of the bay. For more details, contact Frank and Maureen Davey directly on 0427 786 345.

At Ardyaloon (One Arm Point), the views out toward King Sound are superb, although the waters are well patrolled by local shark populations, so it is best not to venture into the seductively clear waters here unless travelling with an experienced guide.

At Ardyaloon (One Arm Point), the views out toward King Sound are superb, although the waters are well patrolled by local shark populations, so it is best not to venture into the seductively clear waters here unless travelling with an experienced guide.

The head office of the Bardi Jawi Rangers is also here, which provides a base for groups of Indigenous Rangers who care for their country in a culturally appropriate way whilst also providing sustainable employment opportunities for locals. Their work is important to the success of the tourism industry on Cape Leveque and includes weed management, providing educational talks to school groups, and data collection enabling the conservation of marine turtle and dugong populations.

As we drive back towards Broome, awestruck by the stunning hues of green and red which characterise the landscape, it is the efforts of both the Rangers of recent times and Traditional Owners since time immemorial for which we feel truly grateful. Thanks to their work in caring for this country, places like the Dampier Peninsula still exist, so that they might be treasured by all Australians and experienced by the lucky few.

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Written: Mon 01 Jul 2013
Printed: July, 2013
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