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Along the Burnett
'Mundubbera is Aboriginal for ‘meeting place of the waters’ and is aptly named due to its location where the three rivers, Burnett, Boyne and Auburn meet.'
Words and Images by: Stephen & Debbie Mills Q67107

Four motorhomes, a campervan and a Cub camper trailer headed south from Gladstone in Queensland recently to assemble at Gin Gin, some two and a half hours down the Bruce Highway. From there we would embark on a four day (800 kilometre) safari visiting some small towns on the Burnett River Hinterland, which many of us would normally just travel through but rarely stop at.

Leaving Gin Gin the following morning, tour leader Gordon and wife Del Q40339 guided us toward Mount Perry, deviating off the bitumen to drive the rigs through the Boolboonda Railway Tunnel.

The Tunnel was built in 1883-84 and is the longest unsupported railway tunnel in the Southern Hemisphere with a length of 192 metres through solid rock. It became redundant in December 1960 when the Mount Perry to Gin Gin railway was closed and removed.

Mount Perry is a pretty little community nestled at the bottom of a valley formed predominantly by high hills and Mt Perry itself. It was a copper mining area in 1871 and had its own smelters operating until  1913. Remains of this activity can still be seen from a boardwalk set up to help visitors appreciate the area.

A Leopard Tank is located opposite the council office, which was gifted to the local RSL when the tanks were replaced by the Abrams Tanks in 2007. This was a surprise in such a small place like this and drew much attention from the boys in the group.

Next it was on to Ceratodus, just north of Eidsvold. It is all bitumen road out there, our Cub travellers took a wrong turn and ended up travelling about 150 kilometres extra along dirt tracks but through very  pretty countryside, only to finally arrive for happy hour just as the heavens opened up and rain sent us all under cover.

The second morning, while the sun was trying its best to break through the cloud, we had time to look around the area which included the old Ceratodus Railway Station (1924) and a marker noting the site of a Police Camp from way back when the area was still considered part of New South Wales.

To one side we could see the Paluma trees all flattened from the flood, with rubbish caught in trees high up from the ground. In one spot a branch was caught in a tree at least ten metres above the road bridge, which stands 30 metres above the river.

Eidsvold, just down the road, was our next stop. This pretty town has a dump point and suitable parking for long vehicles right in town.

The RM Williams Learning Centre was interesting and while in its infancy, in terms of development, provided an opportunity to learn a little more about the man and the legend. RM, as he was  known, lived in the Eidsvold area (as do some of the family still) and was not only a leather goods maker but also a stone mason and good horseman. We know him today for his RM Williams clothing lines, although the family have no links to that company these days.

The safari vehicles on the old railway easement before entering the Boolboonda Tunnel

Next, we took a quick turn off to Mundubbera and a visit to the Burnett River rest area. This area is very well set up and suitable for all ages with plenty of room for large groups of vehicles. In the distance we heard the roar of the weir, now flowing strongly after many years of drought. Looking down stream we saw the new high level bridge standing at least 40 metres above the river. This went under water this year when the Burnett River raced toward Bundaberg, destroying everything in its path.

Mundubbera is Aboriginal for ‘meeting place of the waters’ and is aptly named due to its location where the three rivers, Burnett, Boyne and Auburn meet.

Gayndah, the orange capital and oldest town in Queensland, was our last stop for the day as we arrived at a freedom camp on the southern side of the town. We found a spot where we could all fit in and even though the toilets and showers were way down the other end, it was far enough from the ‘pickers’ who had camped along its full length. It is a real international camping location and the facilities are quickly overwhelmed.

Heavy rain during the night cooled things off but the following morning was lovely and clear, with a beautiful view of the Burnett River from our river bank location. The River was only a trickle compared to a few weeks earlier.

The safari crew from Curtis Coast Wanderers at Paradise Dam on the last happy hour of the trip

It had been arranged for the former Mayor of Gayndah and avid Citroen collector, Peter Huth, plus his mate, Les Hay, to show us their private collection of some 30 plus restored vehicles. What an amazing collection it was and so  beautifully restored. You could tell by the way the lads spoke that they were very proud of their collection and enjoyed showing it to us. Despite being located on a hill top position, the flood waters almost got inside the sheds but just stopped short, thankfully.

Next stop was the Chowey Bridge. This concrete railway bridge was built in 1905 and is one of only two in existence. Although the rail track is still in existence it has been a while since a train ran this line. The original railway  ran from Maryborough in the south to Gladstone in the north, via Monto. It was originally meant to be extended to Biloela, which would have linked it to the western railway to Longreach, but this was never completed. The railway was very controversial and became a political football prior to and during its construction. This section of the line was closed in 2008.

Once again the Cub (or was it the navigator) went the wrong way and arrived at Chowey Bridge as the rest were  leaving, having missed a turn and gone the long way through Biggenden where the CMCA Solo rally was setting up. By late afternoon we were all together again at Paradise Dam for our final happy hour of this safari. Some raffles were conducted as we watched a spectacular sunset across the water.

Paradise Dam is built on the site of the old gold mining town of Paradise (est. 1880). The Dam was completed in 2005 and this year, with the record flooding, there was some concern that the Burnett River may claim it. It is a massive structure in terms of length with a very long spillway to let the Burnett River go. An interpretative centre with plenty of parking is most interesting and the operators of the camping area will cook up and deliver food to your site if you want the day off.

Sunset over the waters of Paradise Dam, not far from the Bruce Highway

With the sun now high, the final morning saw everybody disperse with some returning home and others off to the Maryborough Rally. As you leave Paradise there is an old cemetery on the side of the hill. I thought there could be a marketing opportunity here; ‘when your time is up you too could return to rest in paradise.’ But not yet, for us there’s still too much to see!

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Written: Mon 01 July 2013
Printed: July, 2013
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Stephen & Debbie Mills Q67107