The Wanderer
Esperance/Kepa Kurl might just be the most stunning beachside town in Western Australia. And for a state with the largest coastline in the country, that’s saying a lot. This outrageously photogenic town presides over a waterfront that’s a montage of white crescent coves scooping sapphire seas. But look beyond the beaches (if you can), and this south-coast stunner has depth – early settler tales, pink lakes, eye-popping hikes and even space junk. And because Esperance is more than seven hours’ drive from Perth, you won’t have to share its riches with hordes of tourists.
If there’s a coastal drive that delivers more bang for your buck than Esperance’s 40-kilometre Great Ocean Drive, show yourself! This scenic loop weaves between coastal cliffs and more than half a dozen sweeps of dazzling white-sand beaches. First stop on the drive is Rotary Lookout atop Dempster Head, boasting spectacular views across the Recherche Archipelago (known as the Bay of Isles). Call in at West, Salmon and Twilight beaches for a swim, before cruising past Ten Mile Lagoon and the site of Australia’s first commercial wind farm (now decommissioned), and winding up at Pink Lake.
In 1979 NASA’s first space station, Skylab, came crashing to Earth in a shower of debris over WA. Fragments of space junk landed in paddocks around Esperance, and you can view them – and other curios – at the Esperance Museum. Located in the old goods shed of the former railway marshalling yards, the museum houses a collection of artefacts dating back to the 1800s. Among the exhibits are a locomotive engine, musical instruments, early farm machinery and maritime equipment, and a lifeboat from the Sanko Harvest bulk carrier, which ran aground and sank off Esperance in 1991. If you’ve got a SCUBA ticket and a steely sense of adventure, you can dive the wreck.
If you only visit one beach beyond the town limits, make it Lucky Bay. This five kilometre-long swathe of squeaky white sand is lorded over by mobs of western grey kangaroos. You’ve probably seen them in Tourism Australia marketing campaigns that are beamed across the globe. Tucked between granite headlands within Cape Le Grand National Park, the bay is a riot of clear, turquoise water with enough swell for some gentle boogie board action. You can drive onto the beach, where there’s a coffee van on duty; or walk to neighbouring Thistle Cove, Lucky’s little sister – which is smaller and quieter but equally alluring. Behind the dunes is an excellent campground with solar-powered showers, barbecues, a handful of flushing toilets and some of the best drop toilets you will ever come across. Book months in advance for a spot during the warmer months.
On the approach to Lucky Bay, you’ll find one of the most fascinating short walks in WA. Frenchman Peak/Mandoorboornup is a gargantuan granite dome thrusting out of the plains, with hidden caves and superb views. The hike to the top is a three-kilometre return thigh-burner, climbing over a steep slope of solid granite to the summit, 262 metres above sea level. Keep your eyes peeled for the hidden entrance to a gaping cave, carved by the ocean 40 million years ago and framing views of the Cape Le Grand coastline. Surveyor Alexander Forrest named Frenchman Peak in 1870 on account of its resemblance to hats worn by French troops of the era.
The best way to appreciate the staggering beauty of the Recherche Archipelago is on a cruise. Esperance Island Cruises’ Scenic Wildlife Cruise visits eight islands, with opportunities to spot whales (in season), dolphins, sea lions, fur seals and white-bellied sea eagles. Slip on a mask and snorkel and get an underwater view of some of the clearest seawater on the planet. The 3.5-hour cruise departs from Taylor Street Jetty, cruising to eight islands and making a morning tea pitstop in Blue Haven Bay before motoring past West Beach and Lovers Cove. The operator also runs cruises to bubble-gum pink Lake Hillier on Middle Island when the lake is in full colour.
The RAC Esperance Holiday Park has pride of place opposite Esperance Bay, two kilometres from the centre of town. Fresh from a $9.5 million expansion completed in 2024, the bells-and-whistles caravan park now has 14 new caravan sites and a range of additional villas.
The expansion came on top of a $12 million refurbishment in 2021, which included the installation of a waterfront pool and playground, so you can be assured the facilities here are top-notch.
The park has powered sites, including a handful with ensuites, and accessible amenities. Facilities include an accessible pool hoist, dog wash, dump point, electric vehicle charging station; and a poolside recreation room, camp kitchen and barbecues.
Hit the streets on a self-guided stroll along the Esperance foreshore and Esplanade. Start at Taylor Street Jetty at the southern end of town and check out the lighthouse sculpture. Trace the water north to the Whale Tail – a striking glass, jarrah and steel structure that changes colour in the shifting light. Behind the sculpture are the old railway yards, since converted into the Museum Village – a collection of turn-of-the-century restored buildings and cottages occupied by craft shops, galleries, boutiques and the visitor centre. Also in this precinct is the RSL Memorial Park, unmistakable with its 42-tonne decommissioned tank out front. Finish your walk at Tanker Jetty, a curved 415-metrelong pier with a diving trail at the end. If you’re lucky you might even encounter Sammy the Seal frolicking between the pylons.
Lucky Bay Brewing is a great, rustic spot on the outskirts of town, serving craft beer and wood-fired pizza, with a large outdoor play space for the kids to roam. Proudly doing its bit for sustainability, the brewery makes preservative-free beer with harvested rainwater, renewable energy and raw GM-free grain sourced direct from local farmers. The brewery’s award winning brews are named after local attractions and surf breaks.
Pull up a chair outside, order a tasting paddle and tuck into a Cape Arid (margarita) pizza while the kids/grandkids play. The dog-friendly
venue has live music on Friday and Sunday afternoons and also offers one-hour brewery tours with signature beer tastings.
Category: Destinations
Written: Sun 14 Dec 2025
Printed: December, 2025
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