APPROACHING ULVÖN ISLAND AND THE VILLAGE OF ULVÖHAMN - FERRIES DEPART FROM KÖPMANHOLMEN YEAR ROUND

Stretching along the northeastern coast, nudging the Baltic Sea, the High Coast of Sweden – Höga Kusten – is an island, forest-splashed region and geological wonder. 

High Coast Sweden Travel Begins with a Spectacular Bridge

In the swirling mist, blotted against a pink peony sky, the High Coast Bridge (Högakustenbron) looms over the Ångermanälven river like Sweden's answer to the Golden Gate.

The suspension bridge makes a dramatic entrance to the Höga Kusten – the High Coast of Sweden. Officially the journey started among the spires and neoclassical architecture of Härnösand – 424 kilometres north of Stockholm. The historic island town is the gateway to the High Coast. After stopping by the Hernö Gin distillery in the nearby countryside (the craft gin producer uses hand-hammered copper stills and even has a gin hotel), we're on our way again.

Höga Kusten Road Trip: From Härnösand to Örnsköldsvik

Stretching through to Örnsköldsvik in Sweden's north-east, this is the world's highest coastline at 286 metres – a World Heritage-listed wonder formed from a sudden post-Ice Age uplift. Facing Finland over the Gulf of Bothnia, the northernmost branch of the Baltic Sea, it's a wild and wonderful place with mesmerising island views, mossy forests, farms and fishing villages.

Things to Do on the High Coast of Sweden: Museums in the Forest

Nestled between the forest and the foreshore at Häggvik we come to Mannaminne – an open-air museum (open May to October) whose series of wooden dwellings, sculptures and installations are spread through the trees. We stroll from the Accordion House to the Agricultural Museum, the Technology Museum and the Globe House with its giant paper-maché planets.

"The purpose of Mannaminne is to show how everything is connected," says the museum's creator, Anders Åberg.

 "Culture depends on history, technology and influences from near and far. The maverick artist established some 50 buildings here between 1980 and 2018."

CAMPSITE FIKA

Coastal Loops and Swedish Heritage Stops

Driving east, the vistas open onto multiple archipelagos and inlets. Bönhamn's pretty cluster of red houses by the sea get their colour from the falu rödfärg pigment – the red iron oxide from the 16th-century copper mines. The Blue Trail takes us on a lovely little 1.5-kilometre coastal loop … following the blue dots.

RV Trip High Coast: Tunnbröd, Traditions and Local Flavours

Crossing another clover-leafed peninsula, we lunch at the 1923 Deli at Mjälloms Tunnbröd and taste the wares handed down through four generations at Sweden's oldest flatbread bakery. Founded in 1923 by Ruth Viberg, today it's run by her grandson Torbjörn Ullsten.

The barley-based bread sprung up from necessity – wheat could not grow in the cold conditions. It takes 40 seconds at around 400°C to cook – a process now done with the help of industrial robots as well as a wood-fired oven. The bread is delicious and nutritious and comes in flavours such as sweet potato, served on a platter with local cheeses and charcuterie.

Docksta: Base Camp for Sweden Coastal Hiking

Docksta is the heart of the High Coast and calls itself a seaside base camp for all the walking trails and water activities in the area. We spend a night camping at FriluftsByn – an 'outdoor village' at the foot of Skuleberget – as I conjure up the courage for my pending encounter with the mountain.

I tackle the Via Ferrata on a day of blazing oranges, golden hues and shining blue skies. Fitted out in a helmet and harness, I know there is no turning back. The easiest White Route up the cliff face is a thrill enough – via steel pegs and footholds – but a breeze compared to what I imagined was in store.

Hanging back in my harness at 200 metres elevation to take in the views, I'm on a natural high on the High Coast. Deep blues and greens spread for miles through the meandering forested islands of the archipelago. Three hiking routes also head to the summit in under an hour. At the top, the little FriluftsByns Toppstuga – a summit chalet cafe – provides sustenance and 360-degree views. 

CONQUERING VIA FERRATA SKULEBERGET

Sweden Coastal Hiking in Skuleskogen National Park

Heading towards Skuleskogen National Park, we are playing leapfrog across multiple inlets and peninsulas. The intermittent mist adds a mysterious charm to the scenery, and I keep imagining I'm in the pages of a Swedish thriller.

Instead of getting 'breathtaking views overlooking the archipelago' as promised, we get Swedish-style Wuthering Heights. I expect Heathcliff to come running towards me any minute over the russet-coloured moorlands. Gently undulating duckboards wind through the mist and sphagnum mosses amid minty green air and towering spruce and pine forests.

Swedish Fika and Forest Camping

The next morning, down by the pebbly seashore of Kälsviken, we enjoy a traditional Swedish fika of kanelbullar cinnamon buns and campfire coffee. The campsite lies right at the entrance to the park. Elsewhere, you can enjoy the Swedish 'right of public access' (Allemansrätten) and camp overnight almost anywhere in nature, as long as you respect the privacy of others.

Island Detour: Ulvön on the Höga Kusten Road Trip

At Köpmanholmen, we make an island detour and leave the camper behind. This is the departure point for many island ferries. On our way to Ulvön Island, we see the archipelago unfurl in dazzling autumn tones.

We arrive as late afternoon sun shimmers across the harbour. On a short stroll around the village of Ulvöhamn, we pass pretty cottages with model lighthouses and other marine decor in their windows and take in the fresco wonders of the 1662 Ulvön chapel. The boat sheds and traditional wooden frames for drying fishing nets are vestiges of the fish fermenting industry, depicted at the little Ulvö Museum.

Eating Local on the High Coast of Sweden

Fermented herrings are on the buffet menu at the Ulvö Hotel, along with smoked fish, farm meats and mountain produce. Staunchly local, the eateries on the High Coast are committed to serving up local artisan foods and farm produce – making for high-quality, healthy grub along the way.

Granö Beckasin and the Northern Lights

After our longest drive so far, we get another taste of this at Granö Beckasin eco-village, where we camp by the river after an organic feast at the lodge. Over the next two days, we go moose sighting and kayaking and spend a night in the trees at a Bird's Nest house built from recycled timber.

Then magic strikes on a snowmobile safari when we witness the spectacle of the northern lights, Aurora Borealis, lighting up the sky like a black and green jelly bean.

Journey Planner for Your RV Trip High Coast Sweden

The Höga Kusten is about a four-hour drive north of Stockholm. You can also fly into the Höga Kusten Airport (Kramfors-Sollefteå). For RV adventures, Stockholm arrival is easier, as Swedish companies like Smaland Campers (for vans) and Skandi Trip (for motorhomes) are both Stockholm-based.

HERNO GIN

Category: Destinations
Written: Wed 30 Apr 2025
Printed: May, 2025
Published By: