Cawnpore Lookout

With the Mareeba rally now successfully concluded, it was time to head west. The next major event marked on our calendar was the Mount Isa Rodeo, but as we were in no hurry, we took the Savannah Way. 

The odometer on our beloved Murana is really ticking along. It’s more than 3,000 kilometres in a straight line from Hobart, our official starting point to Mount Isa where we last left you. But in reality we’ve driven 32,000 kilometres and it’s been smooth travelling all the way.

Before we start on the sightseeing, we should maybe discuss our cooking arrangements.

Along with a great kitchen, our motorhome has a built in BBQ as well. I am not the world’s greatest cook and fortunately, just before we commenced on our epic journey, Brigitte discovered thermal cooking, which allows you to prepare the meal early in the day and have it continue to cook itself whilst you undertake your day’s driving. Arriving at your destination, your meal is fully cooked.

First stop on this leg of our journey was the majestic Millstream Falls, just out of Ravenswood, reportedly the widest waterfalls in Queensland, and truly stunning. Just down the road we found the Innot Hot Springs.

Situated within a caravan park, but open to the public at a small fee (concessions apply) this group of ‘spa type’ pools at  varying temperatures certainly provided relief for any aches and pains. Whilst the many Europeans jumped from very cold to 43° and back, Brigitte and I were happy to relax in a comfortable 37°.

A short walk to the adjoining riverbed was also an experience; to see the water bubbling to the surface at temperatures you could cook eggs in.

Our first overnight stop was at the Undara Volcanic National Park where we were to have our ‘Undara experience’. For us this meant a talk on the Cosmos from one of the tour guides, around the campfire, on a very cold but crystal clear night, followed the next day by a guided tour of the historic Lava Tubes.

Undara provides a wide range of accommodation options from restored railway carriages to a swag tent village and safari shelters to campgrounds and powered sites where our motorhome was very comfortably parked. There were several meal options, tours and regular entertainment events. We were particularly impressed with the manner in which they had blended the whole facility into the surrounding landscape, so much so that it was hard to detect from a local lookout.

Travelling through Mt. Surprise and Georgetown we arrived at a freedom camp beside a picturesque billabong at the historic Cumberland Mine site. With a magic sunset, the billabong became home to many species of birdlife.

Home away from home

Further west, and situated in the heart of Gulf Savannah country we discovered the heritage focussed Croydon. The Visitor Information Centre was very welcoming. Friendly service, picture boards, informative town plan map, adjoining heritage site and quirky but clean amenities all set the scene for a pleasant walk around town. And there was plenty to see. A complete (free entry) heritage precinct which was amazingly preserved and maintained, a mining museum, Lake Belmore and the iconic and still operational Gulflander train, arriving from Normanton.

Just when you think you have seen everything, we arrived in the Carpentaria Shire, town of Normanton, to be greeted by Krys the Crocodile - The Savannah King. Situated in the middle of town, is an 8.6 metre replica of the largest croc ever shot (and recorded). This two tonne beast is a stark reminder that you are now in ‘croc territory’.

A walking map of the town highlighted 30 ‘must sees’ which kept us occupied for a couple of days. Don’t miss a visit to the railway station with a viewing of the Gulflander train and rail museum.

At day’s end our caravan park provided the perfect relief with a thermal spring spa or you could choose to swim a few laps in the 25 metre pool, followed by musical entertainment during happy hour.

Not being a fisherman, but still an appreciator of a good fish meal, I had been longing for a taste of ‘real’ barramundi, and we had been advised that our next stop would provide that opportunity. And so we headed further north to the fishing mecca of Karumba, right on the Gulf.

Of course, a trip to Karumba would not be complete without a sunset cruise. There are several on offer in the town but we settled for the one located only 100 metres from our van park. The friendly husband and wife owner/operators gave us good, light hearted commentary for the whole trip and made sure we got our money’s worth.

The trip included sightings of much local birdlife, our first real croc sighting, the magic of the famous Karumba sunset and the unexpected rise of the full moon. All this plus wine and ample nibbles including prawns made for a very enjoyable experience.

Our visit here was short but we certainly savoured our ‘real barra’ meal, leaving us with a taste by which we could now measure other barra offerings.

Then it was quite a quick trip down the bitumen, past the Burke and Wills Roadhouse, a freedom camp at Terry Smith Lookout, and on to Cloncurry for supplies and petrol before proceeding further.

We should mention that at the time we found the fuel prices in Cloncurry excessive. Travellers may wish to consider researching fuel prices before travelling to this area.

We had decided to do the loop from Cloncurry to Winton, then to Boulia, Dajarra and on to Mount Isa as we still had some time to fill in before the Rodeo.

The leg to Winton provided a number of freedom camp opportunities and the obligatory one drink at the Walkabout Creek Hotel, now located right beside the highway.

Rodeo

Three motorhomes in a row tackled the single lane Developmental Highway with  ease, making room for road trains and the many travellers also wishing to share this scenic experience.

Karumba

First stop and refreshment opportunity was at the historic Middleton Hotel and adjoining ‘Hilton Hotel’. This was a chance to meet the locals, experience their hospitality and listen to the history.

We camped at Cawnpore Lookout. There was no passing traffic between 4 in the afternoon till 7 the next morning. The colours, mesa tops, and amazing night sky made this undoubtedly one of the highlights of our journey thus far. Once again the countryside was truly spectacular and emphasised just how big this country of ours is and just how many wonders there are to experience. It also made us realise just how very fortunate we are.

And so on to Boulia and the stories of the Min Min lights, the unsolved modern mystery of the light that at times follows travellers for long distances.

The town has an excellent interactive display within the Information Centre where travellers could share the Min Min experience. We did in fact talk to many locals in Boulia and Dajarra, who indeed had their own stories that they were only too happy to share. But just in case you are tempted to look for the lights, you are reminded, ‘you cannot find the Min Min, the Min Min finds you!’

The Gulflander

And so on to the final destination on this leg of our journey, Mount Isa and the annual Rodeo. The event brings together both man and beast from across the country to what is a very professional and highly competitive event.

Running over several days, locals and travellers alike are tempted by sideshow alley, the merchandisers offering every form of accessory from hats to boots, saddles to whips, clothing and several food temptations. Entertainment was running non-stop.

The Rodeo itself was run very professionally. Timing was to the minute. The big screen made it possible to review all the thrills and spills as they occurred.

And there were plenty of them.

Bull riding, buck jumping, and horsemanship at every level was on display. It was exciting and you could not help but ‘feel’ the many bumps that were dealt out by horse and steer alike.

Edith Falls

 Should you be planning to put this event on your calendar for this year, you are advised to book very early as the city was booked out for several weeks surrounding the event. And don’t leave your shopping until Sunday as the ‘majors’ do not open.

Next we turned our thoughts and our ‘van’ towards Darwin.

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Written: Tue 01 Jan 2013
Printed: January, 2013
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