Game fishing boats at d’Albora Marina are ready to take you into the area’s fish-rich coastal waters

Only around three hours out of Sydney, Port Stephens is a natural harbour stretching 24km westward to the mouth of the Karuah River and fronted by the imposing Tomaree and Yacaaba Headlands at the entrance. Covering 135 square kilometres, there is an abundance of secluded places to explore. And yet, despite its undeniable charm, the population is only around 35,000 for the entire area, so it’s uncrowded, especially if you visit away from the peak summer holidays.

Europeans first sighted Port Stephens when James Cook sailed the HMS Endeavour up the Coast in 1770. He named the opening after his mentor Sir Philip Stephens, Secretary to the Admiralty, and noted the sheltered stretch of water offered protection from the wind in all directions. Before that, the Worimi people called it home and for millennia enjoyed the rich bounty of the sea and a mild climate.

In colonial times, escaped convicts found it an ideal place to hide out and, because of this, one of the first official settlements  was a government outpost at Soldiers Point.

The soil on the low-lying plains isn’t particularly fertile, and initial agricultural pursuits met various levels of success. Farming was the main activity up to the 1950s when folk from Sydney and Newcastle bought cheap land for holiday houses. Some of these basic homes still exist, but these days almost the entire shoreline from Shoal Bay to Soldiers Point has been covered with modern architecture.

Shoals inside the port have saved the area from significant development. In 1812, Governor Macquarie visited and declared that the harbour was too shallow to be considered as a major town for the new colony. And, because the highway runs well to the west, most travellers continue to destinations further afield without realising the attractions to be found here.

It’s the combination of ocean access, sublime waterways, pristine bushland, close offshore islands and picturesque mountains that make Port Stephens unique. Some places have some of these features, but none combine them all in such an extensive natural playground.

Drop a line at Shoal Bay

Tourism sits alongside the needs of local retirees and young families who populate the region as the main business drivers. Accommodation ranges from basic bed and breakfast establishments to several luxury resorts and a dozen caravan parks.

The heart of Port Stephens is the area around Nelson Bay with high-rise  apartments, a small business centre and the marina complex where recreational and charter boats share space with a dynamic fishing fleet. Here you will find a range of dockside dining including takeaway that boasts the best fish and chips in NSW.

Monster game fishing boats live here and at another marina a few miles further inland, because the waters off Port Stephens are famous for record-breaking catches of marlin. Each year the port hosts the NSW interclub game fishing event, the largest in the state.

Hire boats allow you to get out for estuary fishing, and several charter boats target offshore species around Broughton Island or on the inshore reefs.

Waterfront property galore (the secret’s out!)

LIGHTING THE WAY

I’ve been to the area many times and I never tire of the view from the Nelson Head Heritage Lighthouse Cottage and Rescue Station Reserve. This is a real must and an easy and rewarding way to greet the sun as it struggles over the horizon at dawn. The 53m hill houses the 1875 lighthouse complex, which now serves as a museum and headquarters for the local Marine Rescue. There’s even a cafe for a meal with a view, but they don’t open until 9am so you will have to take your own coffee for sunrise.

MARINE PARK PROTECTION

The 980 square kilometre marine park takes in the sprawling waterways of the port, the Karuah River, Myall Lake, Smith Lake and all their creeks and tributaries, the ocean beaches and three miles to sea. The park was gazetted in 2005 to protect the rich marine biodiversity.

Visitors need to be aware of various restrictions on fishing and boating particularly in sanctuary zones. Maps can be downloaded from the Department of Primary Industries website (dpi.nsw.gov.au).

Exquisite unspoiled beaches await the RV traveller in the Port Stephens area

NAUTICAL PURSUITS

Port Stephens is boating heaven. The enormous tidal waters of the port and the safe direct access to the sea, open up all styles of fishing from scooping a prawn to landing a giant pelagic.

If you bring your own boat, the opportunities for exploring and fishing are almost endless. You could cruise the Karuah River and beyond or spend weeks of discovery on the meandering Myall River.

NO BOAT — NO PROBLEM

Take a one-hour ferry ride to the quaint and friendly Tea Gardens on the Myall River and see dolphins and a variety of birdlife on the way. Hire a kayak, have a round of golf or enjoy an extended lunch at one of the many cafes or restaurants. Return journeys depart every couple of hours, even in winter, and return fares are $26 for adults.

Swimming with dolphins is unforgettable

WATCHING WHALES AND DOLPHINS PRANCE

The colder months see a migration of humpback whales offshore as they travel north for the breeding season in southern Queensland then return to their Antarctic summer feeding grounds. Like many places along the coast, the area offers a variety of day trips on charter boats to get amongst the action.

If you aren’t keen on heading to sea, then whales can be seen from shore, and they often come quite close. We spotted three groups of whales from the Birubi headland as they frolicked about half a mile from us.

BROUGHTON ISLAND CRUISE

Tours also take a day trip to Broughton Island allowing you to explore secluded coves, birdlife habitat and nostalgic fishing huts at this 120ha island, about 14km  north-east of town. The island has sheltered snorkelling in gin-clear waters of Esmeralda Cove, and there are limited camping sites if you want to spend a few days away from it all.

Join a whale watching cruise from the port

BUSHWALKING

Because of the many volcanic remnants and the rugged rocky shoreline, there are many picturesque and historical walks, but let’s kick off with the easiest. A drive up to Gan Gan Lookout on Lily Hill Rd leaves only a 200m steep walk past the locked gate up a tarred road to the summit with views over suburbia to the ocean and west across the water to Karuah.

A short coastal walk at Birubi Point starting at James Patterson Street leads past a historic cemetery with graves dating back to 1897 then through coastal heath to a headland where we found a sizeable Aboriginal midden and views across the sand dunes.

Longer walks take you to the summit of Tomaree Headland, Stephens Peak and Quarry Hill, but the most rewarding trek is along the Fingal Spit at low tide and out onto Point Stephens. It’s a 6km round trip, and you will need to be aware of the water covering the sandbar on your return trip. When the sandstone lighthouse was built in 1862, the spit was covered in scrub five meters above high tide, but a gale in the late 1800s washed the spit away, leaving the low crossing we see today.

FIGHTER WORLD

Williamtown Airport is home to The RAAF’s Air Combat Group including Squadrons of F/A18 Hornet aircraft, often heard making a noisy pass low overhead at any time in  the Port Stephens area. Lovers of technology, young and old, will enjoy the volunteer-run museum attached to the base with its excellent displays of fighter aircraft that date all the way back to World War One.

Exhibitions include F-111, Mirage, a Sabre, full-size replicas of a Sopworth Camel, Messerschmitt 109 and an Mk 8 Spitfire and over 400 hand-built timber models.

A glorious sunset from Gan Gan Lookout

MURRAYS BREWERY

If you’re looking for refreshments, a quiet beer can be found at Murrays Brewery which claims its Whale Ale is Australia’s best craft beer — you be the judge. The brewery also has a 35ha vineyard and some selected varieties available to taste or take away. My choice would be a couple of whales for the road and a visit back to the marina for that award-winning fish and chips.

THE WRAP

Summer is peak season but Port Stephens is an all-year proposition if you can forego a swim in the decidedly cold winter ocean. Cooler months mean less visitors and lower accommodation costs and also offer clear skies and a chance to encounter the growing number of migrating whales. I’m sure you will discover plenty on offer whatever time of year you visit.

Please note, some sites and locations may not be accessible due to recent storm and weather damage. 

Category: Destinations
Written: Wed 01 Jan 2020
Printed: January, 2020
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