Rising abruptly out of the surrounding sand plains, the dominant shape of the Bynguano Mountain Range at Mutawintji must have been like a magnet to ancient aboriginals travelling across the land. Today, that same silhouette beckons a steady stream of visitors who are finding their way to this mystical spot, deep within the Australian outback.

Located in a dry, remote region of New South Wales, around 130km north-east of Broken Hill, Mutawintji National Park became the first park in NSW to be handed back to its traditional Aboriginal owners in 1998. Meaning ‘green  grass and waterholes’, Mutawintji is the ancient tribal area of the Malyankapa and Pandjikali people who have called this rugged region their home for tens of thousands of years.

All around is a vast arid zone of saltbush and mulga desert plains, stretching as far as the eye can see, but in the protection of the ranges, an oasis-like environment has developed. Visiting Mutawintji is like stepping into an outdoor museum of geological significance, with its timeless eroded gullies and crumbling rock faces. Also evident is its cultural importance and it seems an ancient people have not only left  behind their artistic and dreamtime heritage, but also their spirit.

Campground picnic facilities

CAMP WITH THE LOT

Leaving miles of dusty red dirt roads behind, our arrival at the national park camping area on the banks of Homestead Creek provided a homely feeling and welcome relief from the harsh, dry landscape experienced along the way.

The facilities here are as good as you’ll find in most national parks and the setting is idyllic. Nestled among tall river red gums and Homestead Creek, there is plenty of shade for the 50-odd campsites, which are well spread out for visitors who might be seeking seclusion.

The spacious campground

Fireplaces are scattered throughout the camping area, but with wood being extremely scarce, visitors who are really keen on having a fire must bring their own supply from outside the park. A much easier option is to use the centrally located free gas barbecue facilities, or bring your own equipment if you would rather cook at your campsite.

Other facilities provided here include a picnic shelter, septic toilets, bins, tables, chairs and, wait for it… warm solar heated showers.

Colourful escarpment along the Homestead Creek Walk.

TREK THE GORGE

This centrally located campground is a splendid base from which to explore Mutawintji’s many hidden attractions, which are spread out in three main sections. The southern section includes an easy walk into Old Mutawintji Gorge, the central section has several splendid walking trails, and in the north there is another enjoyable walking trail to some colourful rocky outcrops.

In addition, a visit to Mutawintji’s historic Aboriginal sites (via guided tour), is a real must for all visitors.

Even during winter, we found it best to get out and about before the real warmth of the day and this usually meant a return to camp in time for a lovely warm shower by mid-afternoon. Then it was time for a welcome rest while enjoying the wildlife, including the playful, if noisy, corellas and apostle birds around our campsite.

Just five minutes from camp, the access trail for Old Mutawintji Gorge is an easy stroll that ends at a pretty rock pool surrounded by the towering, rusty cliffs of the gorge. Sheltered for much of the day from the sun, the pool looks inviting but is deceptively cold – it was a wonderful spot to sit for a while with our feet in the water enjoying the tranquility of the place and watching a couple of nearby rock wallabies.

This is also a great place to enjoy the birdlife that calls this delightful gorge their home, including Major Mitchell cockatoos, bronzewing pigeons, falcons and even a magnificent wedgetailed eagle.

DAWN PATROL

An early start is also recommended to take on the walks in the central section of the park, which begin only a kilometre or so north of the campground.

Much development has been completed on the walk trails in this park and the first section of the Homestead Gorge Walk is a fine example. Here, an easy (wheelchair accessible) pathway known as the Thaakalatjika Mingkana trail has been carved out and built up along the banks of the creek leading some 500m to Wrights Cave.

Under a rocky overhang here are fascinating examples of Aboriginal and European history, including etchings, paintings and stencilled ochre hands. There is also evidence in the form of carved initials ‘WW’ – LIX (1859) and LXII (1862) of visits by William Wright, former manager of Kinchega Station at Menindee, who passed through here during those times. It is likely that his second visit was during a search for the missing explorers Burke and Wills who also spent time during their travels in this gorge.

From this art site, the trail snakes its way along the edge of the picturesque Homestead Creek under towering red and orange cliffs lining either side of the gorge. A series of mostly shallow but delightfully clear and partly secluded pools are found around almost every turn and an optional side trail leads off around two-thirds of the way up the gorge.

NOT TIRED YET?

This splendid Rockholes Loop Trail leads past some more Aboriginal engravings, including Groonki Wimbija, the Crack Man, who lived in the rocks above the etching and at night came out of the cracks to protect the waterholes. This short, but steep trail gave us our first hilltop vista of the dramatically beautiful Bynguano Range, where we came across another piece of local history – the water supply for the old ‘Mootwingee’ pastoral station homestead dating back to the 1870s, from which the national park originally gained its name.

Returning down a rocky hillside, the Homestead Gorge trail continues deep into the range along the creek bed, to a series of pleasant semi-permanent waterholes.

For the fit and adventurous, the Bynguano Range Trail leads across the creek for a strenuous, and in places challenging, optional route back to the car park. The Homestead Gorge Trail eventually  returns the way you came, along the northern arm of Homestead Creek and takes around three hours return. But if you take on the slower and much more energetic Bynguano Range Trail, allow at least another hour back to the beginning.

SUNSET GLOW

The whole of Mutawintji NP is a real treasure trove of history and culture, containing some of the biggest, open sites of Aboriginal stencils and engravings to be found anywhere in the country. Many of the sites are unsigned and people with a keen eye will make at least a few discoveries of their own during a Mutawintji visit!

Heading back along the meandering Split Rock pathway toward the main camp, the imposing red and orange shape of Wana Karnu (or Boomerang Rock) towering overhead is truly spectacular, particularly when seen in the warm light of the late afternoon sun. Nearer to camp, another splendid  trek to undertake towards evening is the Western Ridge Walk – witness the spectacular fiery glow on the Bynguano rock faces, a magical scene that will be long remembered.

A waterhole oasis along the Homestead Creek walking trail

Category: Destinations
Written: Thu 01 June 2017
Printed: June, 2017
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