The Wanderer
Stretching some 638 kilometres from Marree in the south to Marla in the north, the Oodnadatta Track is today more like a trip down memory lane than just a drive down another one of Australia’s iconic Outback trails.
With its European beginnings back when explorer John McDouall Stuart crossed the continent from south to north in 1862, there followed soon after the ambitious project of building the now legendary Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) from Adelaide to Darwin. When this historic and quite marvellous venture was completed in 1872, it served to put our then fledgling nation in touch, by Morse code telegraph link, with London and the rest of the world. Even today, it cannot be underestimated how important this one single historic achievement was to prove in the development of our nation.
The now quite famous Ghan (Great Northern Railway) then followed along this same Outback trail as it progressively pushed northwards from Adelaide, opening up northern parts of South Australia for settlement and development as it went.
The Ghan railway also served a vital role in the settlement of Central Australia, including Alice Springs, even before the railway eventually reached there in 1929.
For many years (from 1891) the Oodnadatta township stood at the railhead of the Ghan railway line and from there to Altunga (a now abandoned goldrush town in Central Australia) and later Alice Springs, prospectors, settlers, goods and equipment were largely transported from the rail head the rest of the way, some 500 kilometres, by (mostly Afghan) camel teams.
Going a long way further back, well before European settlement, early Aboriginals used much of this same north-south route for trade in ochre and other commodities and to follow the availability of food through different years and seasonal conditions. They were able to do this largely because of the existence of a line of freshwater springs flowing from the great artesian basin across this Outback region of South Australia. Stuart’s exploration (with the help of local Indigenous people), the OTL and eventually the Ghan, which also depended on water for its steam engines, all in turn followed this same string of waterholes north into the interior of the country.
Today the Oodnadatta Track gains much of its appeal not because of its isolation or the ruggedness of the adventure along it, but because of the very real Australian history that can still be seen in many places along the way.
Whilst the road itself, from Marree to Marla, is all unsealed and can be subject to patches of corrugations, it can at most times be undertaken in conventional vehicles with high clearance. For peace of mind however, a 4WD is still recommended. Off-road caravans and camper trailers handle the route with relative ease. The road can be closed after rain.
For those taking on this trail who are interested in checking out the wonderful pieces of Aussie history to be found along the way, be well advised to allow plenty of time. On the one hand, it is possible to traverse the entire length of the track in a long day’s drive; however, on the other hand, there are plenty of travellers who take a week or more to slowly enjoy the experience. Assuming you have a moderate level of historic interest and a preparedness to do a few of the side tracks to points of interest, I would recommend something like four days should be ideal.
Yes, the Oodnadatta Track is definitely not just another rough, gruelling trail to pound along and tick off your list – this is more like an enjoyable, historic adventure that has plenty to keep you interested from one end to the other
• Many hot water springs including the unusual looking mound springs (don’t miss The Bubbler and Blanche Cup) – several easily accessible ones are suitable for a swim/spa bath – make sure you don’t use any soaps, shampoos or anything else likely to contaminate the water which is used by livestock and native animals. The spa at Coward Springs is also fully recommended.
• Remnants of the old telegraph line can be seen in a number of places along the way.
• Many old buildings (some have been restored whilst others are in various stages of decay) relating to the OTL, including substantial telegraph station settlements – the Peake ruins with its magnificent stonework dating back to the 1860s and 1870s (homestead, telegraph station and police station) 15 kilometres off the road are probably the best. There is a rough track (4WD recommended) in and out but it is worth the effort. The formidable Strangway ruins are also worth inspection.
• Many old Ghan railway bridges – the largest and best example is at Algebuckina, an impressive 578 metre long structure over the Neales River – a real credit to the engineering skills of the 1870s. There are several historic graves to be found near the northern end of the bridge.
• Old Ghan railway workers’ cottages, train water towers and desalination plants.
• A number of historic cemeteries and isolated graves.
• Numerous majestic red sand dunes can be seen along the way.
• There are some lovely waterholes with plenty of bird life.
• Plenty of old carts, machinery, railway equipment and sections of the Ghan railway line are still intact.
• The strange (or are they weird) metal sculptures (including two planes standing on their tails, noses in the air) beside the road at Alberrie Creek siding are certainly worth a look.
• You also get to see a section of the 5,300 kilometre dog (dingo) fence that stretches from the Great Australian Bight to the Queensland coast.
• The fascinating and well-put-together museum in the old railway station at Oodnadatta is well worth checking out.
• You can’t miss the Pink Roadhouse at Oodnadatta – a real icon of Outback Australia. Highly recommended here is to try one of their famous ‘Oodnaburgers’ – a genuine hamburger with the lot.
• The William Creek Pub (1887) – particularly the front bar area is a classic with jocks, bras, hats, money, business cards and heaps of other stuff adorning the walls and ceilings. Also worth checking out here is the pub’s dining room made from old Ghan railway sleepers. William Creek is South Australia’s smallest town with a regular population of six. Flights over the colourful Painted Hills on nearby Anna Creek Station (the world’s largest pastoral station) as well as Lake Eyre are available from William Creek. You can also take a 4WD side trip from here to see the lake, approximately 60 kilometres away. Also of curious interest here are the rockets in the Outdoor Museum opposite the pub.
• The historic Marree Hotel (1883) – a beautiful two-storey hotel with great meals and friendly service. Also here in Marree are some old Ghan railway engines and one of Tom Kruse’s original mail trucks which serviced this remote area years ago.
Additional information
• It was early explorer John McDouall Stuart who named many of the features along the Oodnadatta Track.
• Ensure you stock up with provisions, fuel and water before you start your journey. Limited supplies are available at main centres along the track.
• Remember, drinking water is scarce along the entire length of the track – including at the main centres of population along the way of Marree, William Creek, Oodnadatta and Marla – don’t expect any of these places to be happy to fill large water containers; they won’t! Bring plenty of your own water or be prepared to boil or purify bore water found along the way.
• Information and maps are available at all the main centres along the Track.
• The annual Oodnadatta Bush Races and Gymkhana – a two-day event – is held in May each year. This is a great fun weekend where you’ll not only see the running of the Oodnadatta Cup (no bookies or TAB but a good fun Calcutta and auction), but also such beaut spectacles as potato and apple races, musical cans, barrel and thread the needle events, whip cracking, bullock tail throwing and many other classic Outback events. The Marree Camel Races held in July are also lots of fun.
The word ‘Oodnadatta’ is believed to have originated from the local Aboriginal word for ‘desert flower’.
• The last train to leave Oodnadatta was in 1981 when the north-south railway line was moved several hundred kilometres away to the west.
• There were once 11 repeater stations boosting the Morse code signals along the Overland Telegraph Line between Adelaide and Darwin.
• Best time to travel the Oodnadatta Track is in winter or spring. Can be very hot in summer. Wet weather will close the road at short notice.
• Fuel – diesel and unleaded – and basic supplies are available at the main centres along the Track.
• Accommodation – hotel, cabin and caravan/camping – is available at the main centres. There is also a well-organised campground with toilets, showers and a warm natural spa at Coward Springs – once a busy railway siding complete with a hospital, hotel, store and date plantation set up by the Afghan cameleers back in the 1870s.
• Mobile phone and internet services are very restricted along the Oodnadatta Track. Optus service is available in Marree and William Creek. Pay/card phones are available in Marree, William Creek, Oodnadatta and Marla.
• Road conditions SA: Phone 1300 361 033 – dpti.sa.gov.au
• Local conditions and information:
• Pink Roadhouse, Oodnadatta – phone 1800 802 074 pinkroadhouse.com.au
• William Creek Hotel – phone 08 8670 7880 – williamcreekhotel.net.au
Category: Features
Written: Mon 08 Apr 2024
Printed: April, 2024
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