The colourful hills in the Painted Desert

Like a scene out of the Wild West the amazing lunar-like landscape known as the Painted Desert, not far from Oodnadatta in South Australia, is a piece of outback real estate that is sure to send shivers up your spine! At least that’s how it affected me when I first saw it on our recent trip through this remote region of the state, about 800km north of Adelaide.

Originally part of an ancient inland sea bed which stretched across much of Australia, the hills seen here are the result of erosion caused by wind, rain and general exposure to extremes of weather that has been a feature of the inland of our continent for thousands of years.

In fact, going back in time (some estimates say around 50 to 80  million years), the hilltops of this colourful countryside were once the original level of the landscape. Some of the hard crust has remained whilst the softer layers of soil below have eroded or broken away leaving mesas or pedestal rocks and stratas known as ‘breakaways’.

More amazing Painted Desert topography

GEOLOGICAL WONDERLAND

The eroded sedimentary sandstone slopes and shapes of these hills made up of shales and silcrete (minerals including iron oxide leaching from the soil) have produced a wonderful multicoloured vista that easily fits its given title of the Painted Desert.

The area here, strictly known as the Arckaringa Hills, is clearly an unspoilt landscape of immense natural beauty and colour and the locals are keen to preserve it in as close to its present condition as possible.

Located within the boundaries of the extensive Arckaringa Cattle Station (2,745 square kilometres), road access has been carefully planned not to interfere with this delicate landscape, but still allows visitors the opportunity to get close enough to experience this wonderful natural phenomenon. From the homestead a gravel road (accessible by conventional vehicles with high clearance – except after rain) leads around the southern flanks of the breakaways with a short side track leading to a car park close to a particularly dramatic section of the range. A mud map is available from the homestead.

Who let the dogs out? No chance!

From here a walk trail extends for a kilometre or so into the hills. This is indeed quite a breathtaking experience as the trail meanders through colourful eroded hillsides and then climbs into and through breakaway escarpments leading in several places to wonderful cliff top views over the dramatic, and you could say even majestic, remains of this ancient landscape.

This quite awe-inspiring walk trail is best seen in the early morning when the colours on the cliffs and hillsides are enhanced by the light at that time of day. In fact, as the sunlight changes direction progressively during the day and reflects off different facets of these  weathered outcrops, the colours range from dramatic ochre-rich reds, browns, orange, mustard yellows and white (often blending together) whilst at other times the landscape’s more delicate hues are revealed.

Whilst early morning is clearly the best time to do the scenic walk trail, late afternoon just before sunset is also a splendid time to experience the Painted Desert and there are several places along the access road that provide good vantage points to enjoy the deep, rich colours seen on the hillsides at this time of day.

MAGIC MOUNTAIN

Also along the drive trail is an excellent lookout to a majestic outlying breakaway on the south side of the roadway known as Mt Battersby. The view from this lookout point is quite magnificent and offers a great view of the mountain from early morning right through to the end of the day.

Understandably in this pristine and quite fragile countryside, there is no off-road driving and camping is not permitted. It is a day visit area only. Following rain, quite a  few colourful mulla mullas and other wildflowers, which somehow survive in this barren outback country, can be seen.

Back at Arckaringa Station homestead however, only 10km away (15 minutes’ drive) a range of basic accommodation for an overnight stay is available. Newly renovated single and double cabin rooms (with air conditioning) are available as well as basic unpowered camping and caravan sites (fees apply). There are toilets, hot showers, a clothesline, a communal camp kitchen with barbecue and campfire area with wood provided.

A couple of things not mentioned in the tourist brochures here however, is that you need plenty of insect repellent or a fly veil as the flies in this part of the world at various times of the year are numerous and very, very friendly.

A night or two stay here at Arckaringa is thoroughly recommended both from a splendid station stay experience, but to also take in the full range of shades and colours on the wonderful Painted Desert landscape.

FAST FACTS

• The total area of the Painted Desert breakaways on Arckaringa Station spreads over many square kilometres, however only a small section, but probably the most spectacular, is available for public access.

• Arckaringa Station and the Painted Desert are accessible either off the Coober Pedy to Oodnadatta Road or from Cadney Roadhouse on the Stuart Highway (155km north of Coober Pedy) eastwards along the Painted Desert Road. From Arckaringa Station it is 97km to Oodnadatta, 150km to Coober Pedy (via Mt Barry) and 70km to Cadney Homestead (and roadhouse on the Stuart Highway where motel, cabin and camping is also available).

• Adding further interest to the trip to the Painted Desert from Coober Pedy is the crossing of the area known as the Moon Plain – a flat, open, gibber plain where a segment of the film Mad Max III was filmed when they were looking for a landscape resembling the aftermath of a nuclear bomb! The road also passes through a section of the 5,300km long Dingo/Dog Fence as it wanders through this part of outback South Australia.

• All roads in this area, once you leave the Stuart Highway, are unsealed natural earth or gravel and in fine conditions are accessible by conventional vehicles (preferably with high clearance) and sturdily built caravans and off-road camper trailers. After rain roads can be open only to 4WD vehicles or can be closed altogether.

• There is no mobile phone or internet access at Arckaringa.

• Arckaringa Homestead accommodation and enquiries – station managers Richard and Gemma; T: (08) 8670 7992. Email: arckaringa.pastoral@clearmail.com.au

• Web: www.thepainteddesert.com.au

Category: Destinations
Written: Sat 01 Jun 2019
Printed: June, 2019
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