Cooktown Botanical Gardens

Imagine going to sleep and waking up to the sounds of a cascading waterfall. Where you can explore lush rainforest and swim in crystal clear water all year round. It’s all easily accessible on this tropical touring route in Far North Queensland.  

Murray Falls: A Waterfall Camping Paradise

Between Cardwell and Tully lies a turn-off to Murray Falls within the Girramay National Park. It’s about 20 kilometres in, along a partly unsealed but well maintained road that passes through lush farmland before reaching the signs and forests of Girramay National Park. 

A huge shady area of tall eucalypts awaits, with plenty of space to park a caravan or motorhome. Camping is free; however you do need a permit, so make sure you book online through the QPWS before arriving (as there’s no phone coverage once you’re there). There are toilets, fire pits and water points; and from most spots, you can see and hear the falls. 

It’s only a short stroll through the trees and along a boardwalk to see the magnificent, ever-flowing waterfall. The first sight is breathtaking as you stand in awe and feel the mist on your face. A second platform provides equally impressive views as water cascades down the granite rock face and downstream. At night, the falls are just as magical.

It’s a slightly longer walk along the 1.8 kilometre return Yalgay Ginja Bulumi trail, which leads through a cool rainforest gully (accessed from the campground) to open forest before reaching a viewing lookout at the top of the waterfall. 

It’s pretty much uphill all the way and takes roughly 40 minutes with stops for a breather and to read the signs about the local Aboriginal history of the Girramay people. From the top there are sweeping views, not only of Murray Falls but also the Kirrama Range and Murray Valley with its dramatic rock pools.

Whilst the falls themselves are fully fenced, downstream adjacent to the day area there are two dedicated swimming places with both deep and shallow spots. The swimming spot furthest from the waterfall has a large, flat beach area with some spectacularly enormous boulders. One huge, polished boulder looks like a perfectly placed natural waterslide.  

Back at the van, there’s a good chance you’ll see a resident Southern Cassowary, as one is known to saunter regularly through the campground. He’s an impressive big bird, best appreciated from a distance … although he does tend to be nosy and gets a bit too close when we’re cooking.

Elim Beach

Lake Tinaroo - Platypus Campground: Sunset Views and Tranquillity

It’s less than 200 kilometres from Murray Falls to Atherton, a fabulous place to stock up on avocados and other fresh produce for which the Tablelands area is famous. Within the Atherton Tablelands is Lake Tinaroo and five campgrounds to choose from, all in close proximity to the lake and the Danbulla State Forest. The closest is Platypus Campground, 24 kilometres from town and reached via Tinaroo Falls Camp Road. Make sure you stop along the way to check out the spillway on the dam. It varies in its flow, volume and intensity but is always an impressive sight. 

Platypus Campground is one of the best for caravaners, with all sites waterfront and offering guaranteed sunset views. We’ve been three times and have loved each visit. The views, tranquillity and pure connection to nature make it hard to beat. 

Cockatoos, rosellas and ducks are regular visitors. We wake to sunlight shimmering on the water. In summer and dependent on weather, the lake (which is actually a reservoir and dam built on the Barron River) is perfect for swimming, boating and fishing. It might be the tropics, but there’s no crocs here. Close by are toilets, each site has a fire pit, and there’s good phone reception; but again, make sure you book before you arrive. It gets popular, especially on weekends and in peak season. 

Downfall Creek is less than five kilometres away, another beautiful place to camp right on Lake Tinaroo. Unlike Platypus Campground, sites are unmarked – so you can choose your own spot and set up right on the water’s edge. 

The Lion’s Den: Iconic Queensland Hospitality

From Atherton, it’s approximately 300 kilometres to Cooktown along the sealed Mulligan Highway. You’ll pass Mt Molloy (which has a great free campground at Rifle Point) and Mt Carbine before reaching the small farming town of Lakeland. Lakeland Roadhouse is a good stop for a refuel and serves great coffee. Nearby, a permanent road stall sells fresh and cheap produce from the area. 

Further along is a turn to The Lion’s Den in Rossville, one of the oldest and most iconic pubs in Queensland. Established in 1875, the pub is still thriving today despite being recently battered by Mother Nature.

In December 2023 The Lion’s Den was completely flooded during Cyclone Jasper, with the flooding that followed the cyclone the worst seen in the Den’s history. People were rescued from rooftops by helicopter, infrastructure was destroyed, and the devastation was massive. However, never underestimate the resilience of a community. With support, determination and hard work by locals and volunteers, The Lion’s Den continues to roar. 

This iconic piece of Australian history lives on with regular live entertainment, a fun and friendly atmosphere and a chance to enjoy a night off from cooking. Come for one of the renowned pizzas or a full meal; even stay the night. There are powered sites, unpowered spots along the river where you can safely swim, and safari tents that have been rebuilt. 

Elim Beach Camping

Cooktown: A Blend of History and Charm

Cooktown has retained its charm and enchants with its relaxed, friendly vibe and spectacular surroundings. With a population of just over 3,000 people, it has a surprisingly diverse choice of eateries and a ton of history that blends yesteryear into today.

This sleepy town with its quiet yet busy fishing wharf and wide main street is where Lt James Cook found a safe haven in 1770 to repair his ship, the HM Endeavour. It’s also where the First Reconciliation took place between Europeans and the local Indigenous people. Today, you can see where Cook’s Town was built, on the river where the historic meeting took place. Visit the James Cook Historical Museum or the History Centre in Charlotte Street to learn more about the history. 

Mango trees line many of the streets, with abundant fruits falling to the ground during summer months. A market is held every Saturday. Stroll along the picturesque foreshore, climb Mount Cook, visit the Pioneer Park and take a drive out to the botanic gardens (one of the oldest in Queensland). Adjoining the gardens is a visitor information centre, cafe and Nature’s Powerhouse art gallery which is free to enter. Continue past the botanical gardens to Finch Bay for a gorgeous beach stroll. Take some drinks and nibbles up to Grassy Hill lookout and lighthouse at sunset and enjoy the best views in the area.

There are a number of caravan parks in town and plenty of day trips to enjoy, including a drive out to Archer Point. There, at the top near the lighthouse, you’ll find breathtaking views of mountains and the surrounding coastline. We’ve free camped here a couple of times over the last two years. However, with ongoing rehabilitation in the area, it’s best to check with local authorities first.

Don’t leave town without a drive and a stroll along the picture postcard shore of Quarantine Bay, located five kilometres from Cooktown.

Sunset view of Cooktown from Grassy Hill Lookout.

 Elim Beach: Remote Beauty and Coloured Sands

From Cooktown, it’s a little over an hour via the Indigenous community of Hopevale to reach Elim Beach – a remote part of the Cape York Peninsula.

The road to Elim Beach is sealed until the last few kilometres where it turns sandy and a bit rough. That pretty much describes this place in a nutshell. The amenities are basic, showers are cold, and there are no powered sites. Wi-Fi is only available from reception. But you don’t go to Elim Beach for the luxury. Most of the campground sits in an oasis of lush green grass amid big, shady trees. Choose a cool grassed site or, as we did, a secluded beachfront site that looks out onto an ever-changing horizon of sea and sky. 

When the tide goes out there’s a big sandbar to walk to and explore. We enjoy walks at low tide, abundant birdlife, dazzling sunsets and views across to Cape Bedford. 

The highlight of a stay at Elim Beach is visiting the Coloured Sands. These can be reached by 4WD (along the beach, 300 metres from Elim Beach), or you can walk. From our campsite, we see them at a distance; but nothing compares with seeing them up close.

It’s a bit of a challenge and a rough track to reach the top, but the views are worth it. From up high, the red-rich colours of the dazzling sands contrast wildly with the blue skies and sea. This seems to epitomise perfectly the vast, vibrant and remote beauty of Far North Queensland. 

The Spillway at Lake Tinaroo

Category: Destinations
Written: Wed 01 Jan 2025
Printed: January, 2025
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