The Wanderer
There are few places in Australia that boast immediate access to two World Heritage Areas.
Port Douglas in Far North Queensland is one of those unique destinations.
It’s where the Daintree Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef meet and where eco-tourism is an essential way of life and business.
There are also few places with as many touring options — whether it’s hiking in pristine mountains, snorkelling in one of the great wonders of the world, going on a cultural journey, retracing the steps of our early explorers, or getting up close and personal with wildlife.
There’s a common thread in all these activities; they rely on the natural environment.
So, it’s no wonder that tourism operators have a vested interest in protecting that environment and making sure it is kept as pristine as possible.
There is an emphasis in this tropical pocket on conservation, education, community participation, and offering ways to explore the region without stressing its resources.
Here are some suggestions for an action-packed holiday that will entertain you and look after the environment.
4WD action in Far North Queensland
THE RAINFOREST
Did you know Mossman Gorge is more than 135 million years old and is the last remnant of the oldest surviving rainforest in the world?
Lush, green and teeming with wildlife, Mossman Gorge is part of the Daintree National Park.
You can hike the gorge on your own and, depending on how fast the Mossman River is flowing, swim in a rock pool.
However, take a Ngadiku (nar-digul) Dreamtime Walk in Mossman with a local Kuku Yalanji guide and you will learn the hidden secrets of this ancient landscape.
Indigenous guides such as Skip, who have grown up in the area, share their home and their culture while protecting it at the same time.
A smoking ceremony at the start of the tour wards off any bad spirits before you step out on a journey along private tracks, stopping at culturally significant sites and avoiding others while learning why.
You might even meet one of the old ancestors who still look after the gorge and make the odd ‘appearance’.
Have you heard of the Wait a While tree? If you get caught in it, you have to wait a while to get free.
Did you know it can be used to catch fish, as a source of water and that the leaves can be used to stop leeches?
You’ll get these snippets of Indigenous ‘gold’ on this tour, as well as lessons in finding water, catching fish using leaves and so much more.
Details: mossmangorge.com.au
THE REEF
The Great Barrier Reef — one of the natural wonders of the world — can be seen from space (they tell me) but you don’t have to travel that far.
A 1.5-hour catamaran trip with Quicksilver will get you from Port Douglas to Agincourt Reef.
As an eco-friendly tour operator, Quicksilver has the highest Ecotourism Accreditation, Climate Action Innovator certification, and its own Reef Biosearch environmental division.
The company is heavily invested in protecting the tropical paradise it promotes.
It also has a floating pontoon at the very edge of the continental shelf where you can take the plunge and snorkel among the fish and turtles.
Or you can don an Ocean Walker diver’s helmet and walk the underwater plank or go scuba diving for an even closer look at the marine life.
If you don’t want to get wet, an underwater observatory and the semi-submersible subs will make you feel like you’re in among all the action, or a helicopter ride offers a bird’s-eye view of the reef.
A team of marine biologists is at hand to answer any questions.
More info: quicksilver-cruises.com
Port Douglas Marina
SALTY CHARACTERS
You don’t want to see saltwater crocodiles in unexpected places, so here are a few suggestions on how to stay safe while getting up close and personal.
Try Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures. Just 25 minutes from Port Douglas, Hartley’s will surprise, shock, and probably scare the pants off you. Hartley’s is an ecotourism-accredited park built on a 10ha World Heritage location as a showcase for ecotourism and environmental sustainability. The wildlife on display ranges from cassowaries to turtles and massive saltwater crocodiles. Some are in enclosures, others in Hartley’s Lagoon where a cruise will get you right next to them.
More info: crocodileadventures.com
If you want to meet crocs in the wild, try the Crocodile Express Daintree River Cruises.
They operate from two spots — the Daintree Village and at the ferry crossing.
It’s a tranquil cruise up the river with guides telling you all about the flora and fauna and life in the Daintree.
You’ll be on the lookout for reptiles, rare birds, flying foxes, butterflies and, of course the estuarine or saltwater crocs.
If you see a croc (and you usually do) it’s a bonus. There is no feeding to encourage them to visit but the guides know where they like to lounge.
Ask about the Croc Pass for free return cruise visits.
More info: crocodileexpress.com
Great Barrier Reef
HISTORIC TIES
Cooktown will give you a solid dose of Australian history. It’s best known for its connection to explorer Captain James Cook who took shelter on the beaches after his ship, the Endeavour, came to grief on coral reefs.
Cook spent 48 days in Cooktown while the Endeavour was repaired. The James Cook Historical Museum has a great collection of Captain Cook memorabilia.
In the 1870s, Cooktown was also the site of Australia's largest gold rush.
There are two options to get to Cooktown — 266km along the sealed Mulligan Highway or 188km on the Coastal Road, which includes the 4WD Bloomfield Track from Cape Tribulation.
If you go inland, stop at the Lion’s Den Hotel and the Black Mountains — made of 250-million-year-old lava deposits.
More info: nationaltrustqld.org.au/heritage-sites/James-Cook-Museum
A salty character better seen from a distance
GETTING AROUND
There are various routes to reach the area and to follow once you’re there to explore all that the Port Douglas region has to offer.
Great Barrier Reef Drive
This 140km drive from Cairns to Cape Tribulation takes you from the city to the jungle — with Port Douglas conveniently located about half way. With so much to see and do, it’s best to break it into two separate adventures.
Port Douglas to Cairns
This windy 67km drive rivals the Great Ocean Road for spectacular views. It weaves past resorts, coconut plantations and mangrove outcrops, through patches of forest and hugs the coastline with plenty of stops to soak in views of the Coral Sea.
Rex Lookout is a must stop for pics looking south at Wangetti Beach. You might even get lucky with hang gliders taking off from the lookout.
The road crosses through Ellis Beach and offers turn-offs to all the northern beaches of Cairns such as Palm Cove, Trinity Beach and Yorkey’s Knob — all worth a visit.
When you get to Cairns, there is so much to do. Start by swimming like a local at Crystal Cascades or in the lagoon along the Esplanade. If it has reopened following COVID-19 restrictions, take the SkyRail cable car or the Scenic Railway to Kuranda.
Port Douglas to Cape Tribulation
A 45-minute drive north of Port Douglas, through cane fields and the Daintree Rainforest, will take you to Cape Tribulation — the furthermost town you can drive to along the coast without needing a 4WD.
The road detours to Daintree Village where you can pick up the first of the Crocodile Express cruises on the Daintree River.
If you turn right towards the ferry, you’ll find the second crocodile cruise location. Once over the cable ferry, you’re deep in the heart of the rainforest.
This is cassowary country so slow down and stop at one of the boardwalks to venture further into the forest.
Once you get to the Cape, check out the beautiful beaches — from a distance. Keep an eye out for crocs and take notice of warning signs, they’re there for a reason!
If you do have a 4WD, you can head up to Cooktown on the Bloomfield Track.
WHERE TO STAY
There is no free camping in the Douglas Shire and council officers regularly patrol beaches, parks and council reserves. Here is a list of caravan parks and campgrounds where you can stay.
BIG4 Port Douglas Glengarry Holiday Park
Cape Tribulation Camping
Daintree Rainforest Village
Daintree Riverview Lodges & Van Park
Jungle Lodge
Mossman Riverside Leisure Park
Newell Beach Caravan Park and Holiday Units
Noah Beach – Camping Grounds
Pandanus Tourist Park
Pinnacle Village
Tropic Breeze Caravan Park
Wonga Beach Caravan Park
Guides like Skip share their home and culture
Category: Destinations
Written: Thu 01 Oct 2020
Printed: October, 2020
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