As the long warm days of summer were coming to an end our thoughts turned to our impending trip to the big island.

This was to be our third trip across Bass Strait in our motorhome. The previous two trips were both of a four-month duration, and we expected this one to be around the same. Therefore we were busy planning, budgeting, making a food list and organising what to take with us.

WHERE WERE WE GOING?

Although we are flexible, we like to have a rough idea of where we are going and what we want to do. This trip, we had planned to spend some time in Victoria visiting friends and relatives, a couple of whom live near the Murray River, then onwards into rural New South Wales and the commencement of our trip proper. Our rough trip plan was then to take us through many towns, such as Wagga Wagga, Cowra, and Bathurst — where we intended to  put the motorhome around Mount Panorama — then onto Orange, Dubbo, Tamworth, plus many places in-between.

We would then cut across to the coast, coming out at Coffs Harbour, before it was down past Port Macquarie, following the eastern seaboard to the bottom of Victoria and Gippsland.

During our travels we would have stayed with friends. This would also have enabled my wife, Robyn, to spend some time out of the van in a proper house, as apparently too much time in a confined space with me causes her to have meltdowns. I am not sure whether it is me, but I believe it is living in a small confined space for a long period of time. We were also going to spend some funds where we can in the small towns that were ravaged by the 2019 bushfires. These communities, some of which we had visited on a previous trip, would be really doing it tough, and we believe that visiting these towns as a tourist would be of some benefit.

The Bicheno foreshore; Swansea

EVERYTHING CHANGES

However, as it got nearer to our departure date, COVID-19 hit Australia and the world, and the nation was placed in lockdown meaning all travel plans — not just ours, everybody’s — had to be put on hold. We had no option but to postpone our trip until a future date.

In a way we were extremely fortunate we had not already set off prior to the virus commencing, otherwise we may have been isolated somewhere and not able to venture home. I felt sorry for the people who had started their travels and were trapped in states that they could not  leave, nor continue their journey. Other travellers had to return home and put their plans on hold after travelling many kilometres only to find they could not cross borders and that many caravan parks and attractions had shut down.

Our choice was clear — we were to spend many months in lockdown in Tasmania in winter and as the days drew shorter and darker and colder, we consoled ourselves by watching other people’s travel videos on YouTube. We were not jealous at all about the people in the warmer parts of Australia frolicking in the water and sunbaking on a sandy beach.

The Hazards

IT OPENS UP

As the months passed and ‘cabin fever’ set in we started seeing an easing of restrictions, until we were free. In order to break the boredom we decided to do a few short trips in our motorhome.

At this stage state borders were not open. Being an island had certainly helped our government in controlling the spread of the virus, but it also stifled the economy. Consequently we planned some trips around our own state, as, like many places, our state is heavily dependent on tourism to assist in the economy.

EAST COAST TRAVELS

After stowing the necessary items, we headed up the Tasmanian East Coast. About an hour and a half from home, the first place that signals your arrival on the East Coast is the beautiful little village of Orford. Located on the Prosser river, Orford was first established as a port servicing the convict settlement on Maria Island.

This little town was not our destination for the night, so we continued further up the coast for a rest stop at Raspins Beach, a lovely and popular campsite in days past, with a picturesque vista looking out to Maria Island.

Triabunna was the next town on our journey, once a thriving port with timber its main export. However, times change and these days a fishing fleet operates from these wharves. Triabunna has two other claims to fame — firstly the town has arguably the best fish and chippery in the state, and secondly the ferry to Maria Island convict settlement takes tourists across the Mercury passage to view relics of times past. Many of the buildings date back to 1825 and are still available to view. It also includes the national park ranger’s office and accommodation. Travelling further up the picture postcard coast we arrived at our destination for a couple of nights, the low-cost camp ‘Mayfield’.

The entrance to the east coast

Situated a few metres from the beach, the grassy sites are excellent, and the National Parks-run site also boasts toilets. The campground is situated on Great Oyster bay with views across to the Freycinet Peninsular. 

Once the motorhome was parked and a coffee was consumed, I located my fishing gear and headed across the sand to catch my evening meal. For anyone who may have read my earlier stories, you will know I am the unluckiest fisherman to ever hold a rod — though Robyn says it is skill I lack, not luck.

A few casts were had without getting a bite, and to be fair the wind and waves were playing havoc with any chance I may have had. Then a terrible thing happened. An unlucky snag caused me to lose my rig and saw me sulking back to the motorhome to a wife with no understanding of the trials I had been through.

Always tomorrow I thought, but as Robyn was getting sausages out of the freezer for tea and looking at me with disappointment in her eyes, I thought I will give it one more crack. The tide had come in a fair bit and, optimistically, a huge cast over the breakers had me getting bites. Shortly a salmon was beached. Not huge but still presented to Robyn proudly only to hear her say, “got snags out now”.

A pretty spot, but fishing for dinner can be hit or miss

HEADING UP

After a couple of days we headed further up the east coast, passing the ‘Spiky Bridge’. This unusual bridge was built by convicts in 1843. The walls each side of the bridge have sharp rocks cemented in place to discourage cattle being driven along the track from falling or jumping over the edge.

The pretty town of Swansea, which was settled in 1821, was next on our trip. This village, I am informed, was the third place in Australia to be declared a municipality after Hobart and Sydney. The Morris General Store situated in the Main Street is a very old bluestone and brick building built in 1838 and has been run continuously by the same family for the last 100 years.

Our next destination was Coles Bay, which you pass through to enter the Freycinet National Park campground situated next to the beach at the end of Oyster Bay. The area was declared a national park in 1916 and is overlooked by magnificent pink and red granite hills called the Hazards, which also shelter the world-renowned Wineglass Bay.

We spent a couple of days in this national park campground, and the conditions were not ideal with chilly weather and drizzly rain. This popular campsite would be absolutely beautiful in warmer weather — in fact, during the holiday season you need to enter a ballot to secure a site. After a couple of days spent here enjoying walks along the beach and scenic tracks, as well as another luckless attempt at fishing, it was time to move on.

Mountains by the sea at Freycinet Peninsular National Park

We headed further up the coast to the fishing town of Bicheno. A few nights were booked at the beautiful Bicheno East Coast Caravan Park,  a very popular park with good amenities. The park is situated opposite the main shopping area and within a short stroll of the beach. Once the motorhome was setup, and I was fed and watered, I once again ventured down to the beach and tried my hand at fishing. The strong weather pattern which was affecting all of the eastern seaboard of Australia was also being felt in Tasmania with the waves just rolling in, seaweed everywhere. Again with the fishing, no luck.

The following day Robyn and I went for a bit of a hike around the foreshore. This well marked track is a combination of dirt track and granite boulders. This 3km walk takes in stunning coastline and eventually ends up at the well-known blowhole. In non-COVID-19 times you almost have to line up to take a photo of the sea spray erupting from the small crevice in the red granite. Today, however, only two other couples were experiencing this magnificent view.

After the hike, a drink and something to eat was needed. This was achieved at the local bakery. We then slowly made our way back to the park to prepare for heading home.

Raspins Beach looking toward Maria Island

In the following weeks or months we will continue this trip up the Tassie East Coast, picking up from where we left off this time, as there are many more beautiful and interesting places further up the coast to explore.

This was a nice break from the routine of being home and the everyday schedules.

Our conversations on the trip home turned to the virus and it’s continued spread through Victoria and now seeming to be infiltrating other states once again. We hope everyone remains safe and that the people and the country can one day return to the normal that we once knew.

Category: Destinations
Written: Thu 01 Oct 2020
Printed: October, 2020
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