It was winter when Wayne and I left our home state of Tasmania for our second trip to the mainland in our new Sunliner Holiday motorhome to head north.

The scenery was unique and spectacular but it was the fascinating people we met along the way who really made our trip. The station leaseholders, campsite owners, small business operators and those just earning a living in the towns where we stayed. These people enriched our lives and experiences on the road. Our conversations gave us food for thought, broadened our perceptions and taught us many things.

Among these wonderful people, were Arnold and his wife Levina. We first met them at the Katherine Community Markets. They were selling Indigenous artefacts, including boomerangs and didgeridoos Arnold had made, and some of Levina’s paintings. We were keen to learn about the techniques Arnold used but he was a busy man that day. The next day, we decided to purchase more, so with the help  of the organisers of the markets, we obtained Arnold’s contact details and were truly rewarded with a long distance friendship.

Phone calls every few weeks gave us a great and privileged insight into Arnold and Levina’s life and their wonderful contribution to the area in which they live. Arnold’s ability to share his history, his varied experiences and his and Levina’s work as support teachers at their local school has been such a gift for us. Arnold was awarded Support Staff Member of the Year for the Northern Territory and we were pleased to be given insight from Arnold of the Indigenous cultural program he and Levina developed and deliver to classes from preschool to year six at their local school.

We sent Arnold and Levina an enticing snapshot of our beloved Tassie urging them to visit but unfortunately, that familiar phrase: “Tassie’s too cold for me,” has prevented this from happening so far!

One year later, we returned to the Top End arriving in Darwin  late June and travelling to the Daly River region, Adelaide River, and Kakadu and Litchfield national parks. We hired a small motorhome for the journey and were keen to visit our new friends Arnold and Levina again.

HIRE EXPECTATIONS

After a night’s stay in a hotel room, we picked up our motorhome and discovered it had very little on board! After having the use of our own for other journeys, we’d gotten a little spoilt, with all our provisions readily available. So, a stop at the nearest supermarket was our first priority, for things like detergent, a tea towel and a dishcloth, salt and pepper, a roll of toilet paper and basic needs you require from day one. There were no flyscreens on any of the windows, either, so if it was hot and a powered site in a park was unavailable, opening the windows was out of the question as the insects came pouring in!

Whilst in Darwin, the Discovery Holiday Park was our choice of parks to stay. From just outside  on the main highway, about a five minute walk to the bus stop, you can catch a bus into Darwin CBD for $1 with a Seniors Card, which gives you public transport for three hours. Darwin is very laid back. We walked down to the waterfront. Unfortunately, there were quite a few closed shops and the city to us was a little dirty, and run-down. Business owners, we later read in the paper, were complaining that other towns a few kilometres  out were growing and building supermarkets and shops, so that locals were not needing to come into the CBD anymore.

We were able to catch a bus from the CBD to the Mindil Beach Sunset Markets, held every Thursday from 5pm to 10pm and Sunday 4pm to 9pm. We found a large assortment of handmade goods, lots of beautiful food and entertainment. We even ran into friends from Tassie there.

The next morning we caught a bus to the CBD, and took number four to Fanny Bay from the terminal. Fanny Bay is right on the ocean, with a small set of shops and a cafe. The Fanny Bay Gaol was most interesting. The historic gaol operated as Her Majesty’s Gaol and Labour Prison from September 20, 1883 to September 1, 1979.

The last executions took place in 1952 when two immigrants were hanged for murder of a taxi driver. The prison was damaged by Cyclone Tracy along with most of Darwin, in 1974.

MUCH TO KAKA-DU!

We left Darwin via Palmerston towards Kakadu. Along the Stuart Highway, we saw many mango trees, but unfortunately it wasn’t the season for mangoes. Upon entering the Kakadu area, we decided to stay overnight at the Corroboree Park Tavern, and paid $28 for a powered site. We chose this venue as you could purchase a sunset cruise from here for $60 pp, including the shuttle transport from our campsite to where the boat  leaves. We had a refreshing swim in the pool on site, a rest and a cuppa before being picked up at 4.30pm. The shuttle takes you 20km to the Corroboree Billabong. A magic place, surrounded everywhere by lotus leaves and its pink flowers. The reflections at that time of day were magnificent and we saw a freshwater crocodile on the boat ramp! There were many crocodiles, including one large one heading straight for us, ever so quietly and gracefully. There were lots of wonderful bird life and a beautiful sunset. On the way home, our guide stopped along the road for a large python resting across our path. We were home by 7pm, and finished off with a cider to celebrate a great evening.

On Sunday morning we left the park, but not before saying hello to Brutus the saltwater crocodile who was kept in an enclosure due to a nasty habit of killing each and every one of his ‘wives’.

We drove across the Mary River where it is known that crocodiles cross over the causeway on our  way to Kakadu National Park. The terrain was a little monotonous and dry, with a few roadhouses along the way. We drove through Jabiru, a township consisting of one bank, a IGA supermarket and not much else that was a little tired and run-down. We pushed onward to Cooinda Lodge Caravan Park, where we paid $36 per night for an unpowered site as no powered ones were left. We had a swim in the pool for two hours, as it was very hot. The mozzies were fierce that night. From this caravan park, we booked for the Sunrise Yellow Water Cruise and buffet breakfast, at $100 each and went to bed early, for an early rise at 5.45am.

There were about four boats ready to pick up passengers. We had the least amount of people in our boat and we thought the best guide ever, Reuben. He was animated, passionate and very funny and knew a lot about the area.

We saw many species of birds, six large crocodiles and the entire place was so beautiful, our camera was constantly whirling! After the  two-hour cruise, we returned for the buffet breakfast. We can recommend this cruise. A real highlight.

Lotus flower

We packed up and were back on the road for about 160km through not very spectacular scenery. We stopped at Pussy Flats Caravan Park, for $25 a powered site. The sites weren’t very attractive, but the park had a renovated shower and a bar to serve cold drinks. 

Pine Creek was a great little town with a lookout and an old mining site, where $393 million dollars worth of gold extracted before it was closed; unfortunately, the mining activity contaminated the dam. Originally, the site was purchased for the grand sum of 49 pounds. We recommend staying at the Lazy Lizard Caravan Park which has a tavern, pool, cafe and post office. There is a museum in the town, which opens at 10am. 

GOOD COMPANY

From there, we ventured to the outskirts of Katherine to join our new friends Arnold and Levina at  their property, and hours talking and sharing stories just sitting around their campfire, which was always stoked.

During our short stay, they told us about their mob, about growing up in their different regions and they were only too happy to answer all our questions. Our gracious hosts took us out bush and showed us how to collect the right tree for a didgeridoo, hollow it all the way through from the work by termites, how to make a woomera and a spear and how to throw it. Levina revealed her bush tucker secrets, making the meals around their campfire a special highlight of our entire trip for me. We were taken to a special place to spend a few hours on the river’s edge where the Edith, Cullen and Ferguson rivers meet and on the day a few small bream were caught as well as a small turtle, which we let go after a quick look. Back at their place, we had a brief “jam session” outdoors with Arnold playing the didgeridoo and Wayne  and I accompanying him with the clap-sticks. On the last day, we joined them for Northern Territory Day celebrations and it also happened to be 90 years since the town of Katherine was founded. A fitting tribute to our time spent with our new friends.

BOUND FOR LITCHFIELD

From leaving our friends in Katherine, we headed to the Daly River, staying at the Mango Farm and Bara Resort for a night, at $35 for a powered site. A large shady campsite surrounded by a mixture of palms, native trees, eucalyptus, mango trees and dry scrub. This park is right on the Daly River, with rustic showers and toilet and a swimming pool. We stayed for one night. The next morning, we set off along the Daly River Tourist Road and headed towards Batchelor. The town of Batchelor is only tiny, but provides petrol, a general store and tourist office and a take away cafe.

We stopped briefly at Adelaide River, a really likeable small  town. It has the 4th largest War Memorial cemetery, which was in a beautiful setting, and only recently repatriated a Vietnam Veteran. There was a small market in town with really top quality homemade items, a great cafe and a lovely caravan park. However, after purchasing a few items, we ventured on to Litchfield National Park, and after looking at numerous caravan parks all situated fairly close together, we chose the Banyan Tree Caravan Park, at $29 for a powered site. The host wore nothing but a sarong. We had a relaxing swim in the pool, talking to other travellers and then set out next morning to see the park.

Litchfield has lots to offer from huge termite mounds, to Wangi Falls, Florence Falls and Buley Rockpools for a swim.

The lost city was for 4WD only and the Blyth Homestead was closed at the time.

We spent two full days exploring Litchfield National Park before heading back to Darwin and our trip back home to Tassie.

LIVING TREASURES

Our trip around Australia wasn’t all about the scenery but also about the people we met. Whether it was our Indigenous friends sharing their knowledge and culture, to an

ex-shearer, now opal prospector and caretaker of a camping overnight stay in Coober Pedy. An ex-Vietnam Veteran sharing his experiences around a campfire, to a former opal miner, now an elderly and knowledgeable man selling gemstones and opal jewellery in a fascinating shop at a marina in Port Lincoln. We feel truly blessed.

Our regular contact with Levina and Arnold will continue we are sure, and when asked again whether a trip to Tassie will ever eventuate, there was a slight hesitation before answering, “You never know”.

Category: Destinations
Written: Tue 01 Aug 2017
Printed: August, 2017
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