CAPE LE GRAND NATIONAL PARK

Located some 50km southeast of Esperance, Cape Le Grand with its massive rocky outcrops, long stretches of pristine, white sandy beaches and the clearest turquoise water you will see anywhere, all adds up to one of the state’s most appealing coastal regions.

Thistle Cove - Cape Le Grand Nat Park

Access to the park is via an all-weather sealed road or via a 4X4 beach access track (approximately 22km) from Wylie Bay on the outskirts of Esperance. A bonus if taking this picturesque route is a selection of excellent fishing and swimming spots along the way.

There are two camping areas in the park – one at Le Grand Beach and the other at Lucky Bay. Facilities at both campgrounds include septic toilets, solar hot water showers (very welcome after a busy day’s activity in the park), a campers’ kitchen and free gas barbecues. There are also picnic sites with free gas barbecues located at lucky Bay, Hellfire Bay and Cape Le Grand Beach.

The sand plains which cover most of the park support a wide variety of plant life with wildflowers at many different times of the year.

Almost tame kangaroos are another special attraction lazing on the beaches or as they come in close looking for food at the campsites – keep an eye on your lunch or evening meal as these very friendly critters have been known to take food off campers’ plates when they’re not looking. Visitors, however, are discouraged from feeding them or other wildlife seen in the park.

A sea lion posing for a snap

Throughout the park there is an impressive chain of granite peaks (including Frenchman’s Peak and Mt Le Grand) standing like imposing monuments above the plains – some with caves and tunnels offering great exploring opportunities. An exhilarating climb to the summit of Frenchman’s Peak with its cavern near the top is one of the park’s most popular adventures. For those keen on bushwalking there are numerous other scenic trails, both cross country and around rocky coastal headlands ranging from just a few hundred metres to a magnificent 15km coastal route. Most of these trails provide ever changing vistas – great for photography, so don’t forget your camera. Walk trail guide maps are available from the ranger based in the park. Fishing all year round and swimming in summer is always popular.

Snorkelling in the clear water

There is also an amazing amount of birdlife out here and around the bays and rocky foreshores look out for sea lions and NZ fur seals. Even whales can be spotted offshore in deeper water.

Nearest supplies and services – Esperance 50km. Bring all supplies, drinking water available in camping areas. Park entry and camping fees apply. 

YEAGARUP DUNES & LEANING MARRI CAMPGROUND

Stretching around 130 km along WA’s southern coastline, D’Entrecasteaux National Park has a wide range of scenic attractions ranging from long, white, sandy beaches, rugged limestone and basalt cliffs, extensive coastal wetlands, granite outcrops and pockets of lovely karri and marri forests. There are also many recreational activities that can be enjoyed here including fishing, surfing, whale watching, diving, 4WDriving, camping, bushwalking and canoeing.

Across the sand dunes to Warren Beach - D’Entrecasteaux National Park

One of several delightful campsites within the park from which you can take in a range of these enjoyable activities is the Leaning Marri Campground accessed along Ritter Road (gravel road suitable to all vehicles) off the Vasse Highway west of Pemberton.

As well as a well-maintained picnic area and shelter with tables, chairs and toilets (including disabled facilities) the camp ground has a good size group camping area as well as a number of individual, wellspaced out sites scattered through a lovely section of marri forest – all quite delightful.

A couple of hundred metres away is the picturesque Yeagarup Lake with a curvaceous walkway/ jetty. This is a beaut place for a swim or to go canoeing warm day in summer.

The main attraction here however for 4WDrivers, is close access to the lovely Yeagarup Dunes a couple of kilometres away. These dunes, measuring some 10km long and rising up to 40-metres high, are slowly moving a few metres a year engulfing the forest that surrounds it.

Camping in Leaning Marri campsite - D’Entrecasteaux National Park

After setting up camp it is now time for some 4X4 fun in the sand. With tyre pressures lowered to around 15psi most 4X4s won’t have too much trouble climbing the dune slope and from there several kilometres of undulating sand dune fun – akin to driving across the Sahara Desert. There are plenty of 4X4 photo opportunities here. It is then possible to drive down the southern slope of the dunes to a sandy track leading to a lovely beachside dune giving panoramic views over Warren Beach and the Southern Ocean. You can drive along the beach here, which has a good reputation for fishing or you can enjoy a refreshing swim.

Sand boarding in the dunes is another beaut fun option or perhaps go for a paddle on the lake … maybe tomorrow – it’s already been a busy day.

Nearest supplies and services – Pemberton, approx. 23km away. Bring all supplies including water. DEC Pemberton – phone 08 9776 1207. Park entry and camping fees apply.

SHELLEY BEACH – WEST CAPE HOWE NATIONAL PARK

Located on the coast between Denmark and Albany, Shelley Beach is one of the south coast’s great little holiday hideaways.

Dolphins - Shelley Beach - West Cape Howe National Park - near Albany

The small National Park campground is ideal for tent camping and campervans, but is too cramped for caravans and big rigs. What it lacks in size, however, is well and truly made up for in its location within a couple of metres of the lovely beach and comes with a free beach-side gas barbecue plus ring burner and clean composting toilet which is wheelchair accessible.

The National Park ranger who looks after the place and collects camping fees confirms that the campground can be quite busy at weekends and recommends you try to get here early, preferably on a week day to give yourself a better chance of getting a site.

Once set up here, visitors are left to decide whether to go for a swim, try your luck fishing (usually quite rewarding including salmon in February to April), watch the dolphins often seen playing in the waves or simply head off for a walk along this beautiful clean, sandy beach.

On a nearby hillside overlooking the beach, there are not only magnificent Southern Ocean views, but this is also a top notch spot for hang-gliders – complete with two sloping wooden launching ramps built into the hillside. Seeming to effortlessly ride the wind currents along the cliff face, into and out of adjacent valleys, the hang-gliders eventually land either back on the hill or enjoy a magical descent to land on the beach far below – right in front of your campsite – a colourful and entertaining spectacle.

A rock climber - West Cape Howe

Another option here in the park is to head out along the sandy, 4X4 heathland bush trails to check out the dramatic and quite spectacular cliffs at ‘the Gap’ – a popular rock climbing/ abseiling spot - and the nearby headland – the most southerly tip of Western Australia. Out here also is the well regarded surf break at Golden Gate Beach, a popular diving spot off Dunsky Beach and some coastal walk trails – including a section of the Bibulmun Track which winds its way right through the park.

West Cape Howe National Park is 30km west of Albany (nearest supplies). Bring all supplies including water. No bins are provided in the park. Camping fees apply.

KALBARRI

While it can sometimes be quite warm in summer, Kalbarri, on the coast 590km north of Perth is, in fact, a good all year round holiday centre with plenty to see and do.

At one time just a small coastal fishing village, Kalbarri, whilst still retaining its fishing heritage, is these days very much turning its attention to its increasing popularity with tourists.

Without doubt, the centre piece of this attractive spot is its location at the mouth of the mighty Murchison River around which quite a few of its attractions are based – including swimming, sailing, windsurfing, canoeing, paddle boats, river cruises, beach and boat fishing and even an occasional big mud crab can be landed.

Just out of town the Murchison River has, over millions of years, Carved its way through the countryside leaving an unforgettable impression on the landscape with spectacular red, orange and cream banded sandstone gorges and escarpments. Accessible to all vehicles in Kalbarri National park, such scenic and quite dramatic spots such as Z Bend, Hawk’s Head, Nature’s Window, The Loop and others are amongst many ‘must see’ attractions.

The cliff face at Red Bluff

Each of these iconic lookout locations can be reached via easy, relatively short walk trails from car parks. In addition there are a number of more extensive walk trails, some of which include climbs down the slopes to the river to enjoy a swim or splash under waterfalls – particularly popular in summer.

Back in town other attractions include a splendid parrot centre (Rainbow Jungle) featuring the largest free-flight area in Australia, daily pelican feeding on the foreshore at 8.45am, horse riding trails along the river bank, a lovely wildflower centre and plenty of restaurants, takeaways, a renowned seafood and steak outlet (Finlay’s – it’s legendary) and the famous Kalbarri Hotel for one of the best pub meals you’re ever likely to experience.

Elsewhere for a little more exercise, don’t miss a visit to the scenic coastal cliffs on the south side of town. Breathtaking places like Pot Alley Gorge, Shellhouse, Mushroom Rock, island Rock, The Natural Arch and others are all quite spectacular. Photography is best in the afternoon.

As they say on signs and in the local brochure – ‘Kalbarri – you’ll love it”.

There is no camping in Kalbarri National Park (except for overnight bush walkers with a National Park permit). There are several caravan parks and a wide range of other accommodation in town – contact the visitors centre – phone 08 9937 1104. A park entry fee applies to the inland gorges of Kalbarri National Park.

CAPE TO CAPE – LEEUWINNATURALISTE NATIONAL PARK

Stretching 120km from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin, Western Australia’s Limestone Coast has some of the roughest, most dramatic coastal scenery to be found in the state. In addition, it is home to several world class surfing spots, around 350 limestone caves, magnificent tall timber karri forest, some of the country’s best premium wine producing vineyards and a wide range of art and craft shops, showrooms, galleries and studios tucked away in lovely bushland settings.

In the Boranup Forest

As well as a range of caravan parks, B&Bs, farm stays, resorts and other accommodation along the way, there are also several beaut National Park campgrounds that make splendid bases from which to get out and explore. While facilities at each are quite basic, the most popular of these is Conto’s Field on Conto Road, 18km south west of Margaret River. Facilities here include toilets (including disabled), water, fi replaces, tables and gas barbecues. This and the other National Park campgrounds are all located in bushland settings, ideal for small groups or families where everyone can enjoy a real camping experience – check out the possums in the trees with a torch at night.

Waterwheel - Augusta

High on the list of must see/do things along this coastline include:

• A visit to the two iconic lighthouses at either end of the park at Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin. Both of these historic places, now well over 100 years old, are open to the public – sure to be enjoyed by the whole family.
• The beautiful bays and beaches are too numerous to mention here and if you have the time, make a plan to check out as many as you can, including some of the world class surfi ng beaches – most are also ideal for fishing and swimming in summer and early autumn.
• At Canal Rocks a wooden walkway and footbridge leads out over the rocks where you can watch the surging waters through a natural rock canal. Sugarloaf Rock near Cape Naturaliste is a beaut spot to watch sunset.
• The beautiful limestone caves, including Jewell Cave, Nigli, Lake Cave, Mammoth, Giants and others are all quite spectacular.
• A drive through the Boranup Forest, a wonderful tall timber karri regrowth forest over 100 years old, will be long remembered.
• For those into bushwalking, there are many excellent trails and for the really keen there is a 135km trail from Cape to Cape.
• With around 90 wineries and cellar door tastings and a number of boutique breweries in the area, there is certainly no reason to go thirsty. Make sure, however, you have a skipper to do the driving. Winery and Bush Tucker Tours are also available – all good fun.
• Feeling hungry? The area has many great little restaurants (some at wineries), places offering Devonshire teas, as well as yoghurt, ice creameries, cheese and chocolate factories all open for tastings.

Margaret River Visitor Centre – phone 08 9780 5911. Supplies available in all nearby towns. 

STIRLING RANGES

Looking for all the world like islands rising from a flat sea floor, the blue, many-peaked outline of the Stirling Range when seen from a distance stands tall, mysterious and alone. The Aboriginal name for the Stirlings is ‘Bullah’, meaning ‘great many face hill’ … and it’s not hard to see why.

Close-up the blue hues around its imposing shapes begin to fade and the sheer dominance of its peaks and summits is quite awe inspiring. In all, over a dozen of these lofty outcrops reach over 750 metres high with Bluff Knoll standing supreme in the east at 1073 metres above sea level.

Measuring around 65km long and around 20km wide, this quite magnifi cent range (330km south east of Perth) with its scenic and botanical attractions draws visitors in their thousands each year (currently around 60,000 per annum).

To get a real feel for the place, the Stirling Range Heritage Trail (brochure available from the park ranger) which runs through the centre of the park with a couple of excellent lookouts along the way is a good place to start.

Along Stirling Range Drive - Mt Magog in the centre

For those interested in wildflowers, the Stirling Range is quite magnificent with over 1500 different species of flowers and plants found on the slopes. The landscape here however,

is not laid out with carpets of flowers like can be seen in other parts of the state, rather the flowers are found in its low scrubby heathland. From parking spots along the drive trail or in bushland adjacent to the walk trails, it is not uncommon to find six or more different varieties of flowers within a few square metres. Including a wide range of small, delicate orchids and mountain bells, there are over 80 plants identified within the park that are found nowhere else in the world.

Stirling Range Drive - Stirling Ranges National Park

Among other activities, bushwalking is extremely popular here with many excellent trails from which to choose – ranging from just a few hundred metres right up to the very demanding ridge trail (2 to 3 days – 20km). The Bluff Knoll climb trail however (for the reasonably fit), is the most popular – allow around three hours return. The views from the top are quite breathtaking. Walk trail maps are available from the ranger. Rock climbing and abseiling are also popular here, as well as photography and watching and enjoying birds and other wildlife within the park. In summer and autumn come prepared for warm days and cool nights.

Accommodation within the park is restricted to Moingup Spring Camping Area which provides toilets, drinking water, picnic tables and free gas barbecues. There are other accommodation options outside of the park including camping, caravan park and chalets. Meals or takeaways are available at the Bluff Knoll Café. Nearest other supplies at Borden Township – 30km. National Park enquiries – phone 08 9827 9230. Park entry and camping fees apply.

Category: Destinations
Written: Thu 01 Sept 2016
Printed: September, 2016
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