A Quiet Getaway on French Island

French Island might only be a short ferry ride from Victoria’s holiday hotspot of Mornington Peninsula but expect to be surrounded by nothing but nature. 

Cycling Through French Island’s National Park

“Shame we didn’t see any koalas,” I say to my husband when we’ve just finished a 45-kilometre bike ride around French Island in Western Port, just off Mornington Peninsula.

We’re at the French Island general store having a cuppa after close to four hours of biking through the hilly national park of this sparsely populated island, renowned for its abundance of koalas.

It’s said there are so many koalas on the island that each year around 200 are transferred to reserves in other parts of Victoria.

“Once you see one, you’ll spot them all,” says a local as she hops in her truck, kids in cricket gear in tow.

I laugh, but I’m not so sure about that, given the hours of cycling we’ve already done, with none of the marsupials to be seen. 

Enjoying the Seclusion and Natural Beauty

French Island can only be accessed by ferry from either the Mornington Peninsula or Phillip Island. Once a prison and self-sustaining farm, it was bought as a potential power station in the ’60s – but the idea was dropped thanks to the opposition of conservation groups and now two-thirds of the island is a national park, while the other third is privately owned.

It’s December when we decide to come. A warm, windy day and we’ve chosen a 27-kilometre track, but we turn too soon (such is the lack of wayfinding) and end up cycling right through the middle of the national park, up sandy dunes so high we can barely walk, let alone bike. And that 27-kilometre ride became somewhat longer. 

You are allowed to bike in the national park, but it’s not for the faint-hearted with around 350 metres of elevation (depending on which track you do), regardless, the terrain is tough, so you’ll need decent mountain bikes. But there is one bonus, you needn’t worry about cars no matter where you bike or hike due to the island’s isolation and tiny population (about 130 people live here). 

Taking in the view

The Elusive Koalas of French Island

As we cycle along isolated trails where dozens of mosquitoes seem to have taken over the population of koalas, I’m grateful we had the sense to bring mosquito spray and a repair kit – although should you get into any trouble, there is phone service. 

We make our way up to the pinnacle, a collapsing tower at 60 metres above sea level that offers fantastic views of Phillip Island and Western Port, and on our way back, stop at a picture-perfect lookout across the wetlands. 

Given our proximity to both the popular Mornington Peninsula and Phillip Island, which are bustling with tourists at this time of year, we’re surprised at how few people are here. 

We don’t pass a single cyclist in all the hours we’re pedalling. The wildlife too is elusive, with the exception of a few cows grazing in the distance. 

When we reach the general store, we finally find some other travellers. A group of Japanese tourists having lunch (and a nice cool beer), and another group lounging on the large deck with their dog. 

We are sitting at a table outside, after ordering a cuppa and cake, when a young couple walk up to the group next to us.

“See any koalas?” One of them asks the woman as she approaches.

“Loads. There were 10 of them just up there,” she points up the road. 

“We’ve just ridden 45 kilometres and haven’t seen a single one,” I say. 

They laugh, and when they leave, I point to the way they came, and say to my husband, “Let’s go.” 

We stand, legs aching, and wander up the road in the direction they pointed, keeping an eye on our watch so we’ll get back to the pier in time for the ferry.

My legs are heavy and I’m about to give up when we look up into the canopy of the trees and curled up in a tree is a ball of fur. 

I pull out the camera and start to take photos, when my husband starts waving his arms in the air, and just as we were told, those seemingly elusive koalas are everywhere. 

French Island General Store

Practical Tips for Visiting French Island

• - In summer, you’ll need mosquito spray and sunscreen 

• - The roads are dusty, particularly when vehicles pass, so you may want to wear a mask

• - A bike repair kit is a necessity 

• - Make sure your phone is charged 

• - Gloves will protect your hands from the sun, as will cool, light clothing

• - Pack lots of water 

• - Bring snacks – but bear in mind there aren’t places to sit, so plan your ride, or hike, to end at the general store where you’ll find a good selection of food and drinks

• - You can take your dog, but not into the national park.

Journey Planner for French Island Visitors

Getting there:

Western Port Ferries has ferries multiple times a day between Mornington Peninsula (Stony Point), Phillip Island (Cowes) and French Island. You can take dogs and your own bikes on the ferry. 

Where to stay:

There are multiple holiday parks with sites for RVs on Phillip Island and the Mornington Peninsula which can be found using the  CMCA Traveller App.  

All aboard - Parks Victoria 

Category: Features
Written: Sat 01 Mar 2025
Printed: March, 2025
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