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Musings on the Murray
Explore Mannum - Birthplace of the Murray River Paddle Steamer - and discover a historic region of the sandstone cliffs, waterfalls and even a bird sanctuary.
Words and Images by: Words and Pics: Catherine Best

Mannum is the Murray River town you've probably never heard of. Yet it's just over an hour from Adelaide, nestled in the tranquil curves of Australia's longest river, and celebrated as the birthplace of the Murray River paddle steamer. For a quick weekend getaway from the South Australian capital, Mannum serves up equal doses of history and nature. You can explore the river and uncover tales of yesteryear, or simply pull up a camp chair by the water and do nothing at all. Here are our top picks for exploring Mannum.

River Rambling

Start your explorations on the riverbank at the Mannum Dock Discovery Centre. The museum has various indoor and outdoor exhibits, the most illustrious being the PS Marion, an 1897 vessel and one of the world's last remaining wood-fired paddle steamers still in service. Explore the Marion's three decks, see the original boiler and wood pit, view the cabins and restaurant (still used today) and get a captain's view in the wheelhouse. The Marion operates on long weekends and has scheduled day and overnight cruises throughout the year.

Disembark and marvel at the Randell Dry Dock, used to repair half the Murray River's fleet of steamers for 47 years until 1911. Next door, see the steam-powered beam engine that pumped water from the state heritage listed dock. Learn more about Captain William Randell and the birth of the Australian paddle steamer at the inside exhibits. Randell launched the first paddle steamer, Mary Ann, in 1853 at Noa-No landing, five kilometres upstream, before relocating his operations to Mannum. See the original boiler, the only relic left of the Mary Ann; get behind the wheel of a paddle steamer; try your hand at tying a mooring hitch; and learn how to caulk a wooden boat.


Join the museum's other dame of the Murray, the PW Mayflower, on a 90-minute cruise. The Mayflower was built as a paddle steamer in 1884 and later operated as a diesel-powered showboat, before its eventual restoration and recommissioning as a volunteer-run tourist vessel in 2016. Mayflower cruises run twice daily on Tuesdays, Thursdays and weekends, and are a wonderfully sedate way to explore the river and catch your first glimpse of its golden cliffs. See pelicans, kites, herons and darters, and learn why the willows draping the water's edge were introduced in the 1800s to aid navigation.

Scenic Cliff Drive

By road is also a great way to explore Mannum and surrounds. There are four ferry crossings over the Murray (at Mannum, Purnong, Walker Flat and Swan Reach) and they operate around the clock. Best of all, they are considered part of the road network, and are free. Drive to Swan Reach, taking in the lookouts, lagoons, cliffs and birdlife along the way. The highlights are Forsters Lookout, on the cliff-top above Walker Flat; and Big Bend Lookout, which has spectacular views overlooking the point where the Murray snakes 180 degrees. At Swan Reach stop for lunch at the glorious Swan Reach Hotel overlooking the Murray. From here you can either take the ferry across the river and return to Mannum via Murraylands Road (the whole loop is about 134 kilometres) or backtrack and cross the river at Walker Flat.

Back in town, drive to Mannum Lookout for elevated views over the Murray, this time from the western side of the river. Ditch the RV and stretch your legs on a stroll through Herman Gas Bird Sanctuary, next to the caravan park. Here, you can follow the boardwalk over the water to spy birds and frogs hiding in the reeds and bullrushes.

Chasing Waterfalls

The Murray isn't the only body of water drawing attention in these parts. About 10 kilometres southeast of Mannum you'll find Mannum Waterfalls. The word 'waterfall' is a little generous (it was a collection of puddles during our visit) but after rain, the waters of Reedy Creek create a scenic spectacle as they cascade through a boulder-strewn valley. It's a lovely walk, with or without falls, and affords great views of the surrounding hills. There are two carparks; opt for the upper carpark if you have your RV in tow as the wide gravel area is large enough to accommodate a large caravan.

Stay

BIG4 Mannum Holiday Park is a scenic riverfront retreat set amongst river red gums and weeping willows, a short walk from town. Book a coveted waterfront site and wake to pelicans gliding across the mighty Murray at first light. The pet-friendly park has a full suite of powered sites and cabins and a bunkhouse accommodating up to 32 guests. Other facilities include accessible amenities, a kiosk, barbecues, tennis court, pizza oven and playground. The Mannum Dock Discovery Centre and ferry are next door.

If you are self-contained, there are two great pet-friendly campgrounds on the eastern side of the river. Bolto Reserve offers riverfront camping for just $10 a night, with toilets but no other facilities. Nearby Haythorpe Reserve is free but has no toilets.

Journey Planner

Mannum is 100 kilometres east of Adelaide on an easily accessible bitumen road. Book ahead on long weekends and school holidays if staying at the caravan park.

visitmannum.com.au

psmarion.com

big4mannum.com.au

Category: Features
Written: Sat 01 Nov 2025
Printed: November, 2025
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