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Into the Spirit
Travellers often remark ‘we took the boat to Tassie’ – but what’s the crossing actually like?
Words and Images by: BARRY AND JENNY ROWLANDS Q77955

In the few years that we’ve been members of CMCA, there have been plenty of excellent articles published in The Wanderer on touring Tasmania. However, we’re sure that there may be members considering touring Tasmania who would appreciate some insight into actually getting their RV across Bass Straight. If you are one of those, we hope this article will help you decide.

We had previously been to Tasmania around 42 years ago, taking our station wagon on what may have been back then the Princess of Tasmania. Okay, points made in that previous sentence are hinting at our age, but back then weren’t we all young and adventurous enough to live in the back of the wagon for a couple of weeks with just a gas stove and a billy for niceties? But now we typically travel the country in comfort and style befitting our age and a lifetime of hard work, and if you are keen to experience the delights of Tasmania, the question inevitably arises – fly/drive, or take the RV?

We were scheduled to be in our old home town of Geelong on the way to Kakadu (yeah, I know, that’s the long way round, but a good friend was turning 60) so we decided that while we were in that part of the country we should visit Tasmania in the autumn. Besides, we’d forgotten what cold weather was like after six years in Queensland. There was no question of not making full use of the familiarity of our Toyota Coaster motorhome conversion for the trip, so we set ourselves to taking the ‘ferry’.

The first stop was a visit to the Spirit of Tasmania website (www.spiritoftasmania.com.au). There is a five percent discount for CMCA members on adult fares, but if booking on the web you will need to access the ‘secret’ special fares web page as instructed in your CMCA Welcome Pack. Unfortunately there is no discount applicable to your RV.

The self-booking process on the web was very easy to follow. It is laid out in manageable steps that allow you to select your preferred options as you go, so you don’t need to predetermine everything. I was armed with the vehicle details, which you definitely will need, and preferred travel dates in both directions. Note that you don’t have to book a return trip if you want to leave it open ended, but be warned – space for large rigs, especially if towed, is at a premium. Campground stories abound of waiting around for weeks for an available slot. Also note that in peak season, day sailings operate in addition to the year-round night sailings (see News p12). If you are travelling with a pet, individual cage facilities are available, below decks, of course.

Not moving too swiftly

From previous experience of crossing Bass Strait, albeit a long time ago, we knew that we were unlikely to get any sleep on the first night at sea. So as it’s only an overnight crossing, we didn’t see any point in spending an extra $60 per head per journey booking a cabin, so we settled for the Ocean Recliners. If you are otherwise inclined (pun; what pun?) there are a number of cabin classes available, although I personally can’t see the point of a porthole at a premium for a night crossing. Interestingly, the cost of a single recliner is around the same as the full fare for a 7m Coaster – go figure (vehicle costs are subsidised by the federal  government). Our intended travel dates bridged the seasons, so the return cost was significantly lower than the Melbourne to Devonport leg of the journey.

After completion of the book and pay-in-full process, an itinerary promptly arrived by email confirming all of the details, including the loading instructions. Our fare all up was close to $750 return, which I considered pretty reasonable for two people and a 7m long 4.5t RV. But be warned again. If we had booked to take our pushbikes on the rear rack, the increase in length would have dictated an extra $180 – so they stayed with friends on the mainland. I figured that if the weather allowed and we became really desperate you can buy a recycled bike anywhere these days for around $20. And be doubly warned: If towing a trailer or vehicle behind your RV, the cost increases significantly according to the length. Provided you’ve got two drivers on board, it will probably work out cheaper to disengage your towed vehicle and book two individual vehicle slots.

On our day of departure, we found that there was no point in arriving at Station Pier earlier than advised as there is very limited parking available – besides, it’s for cars only and comes at a very prohibitive metered hourly rate. If the local council ever decides to police the regulations, I suspect it would make a killing. So we parked further around the bay and enjoyed a nana nap which, given later circumstances, proved to be a good move. The boarding gates for all vehicles opened around 2.5 hours prior to the scheduled departure of 7.30pm. No need to rush  or panic, to the outsider there appeared to be very little logic in the loading pattern although it was very orderly and obviously well practiced. We passed through our security check (focused on unsecured gas bottles) and quarantine check (we’d neglected to jettison the onions), were handed our boarding passes, then spent the next two hours in various queues as vehicle loading progressed. As always happens, it seemed that every other queue was moving faster than our own, but it was nevertheless interesting to watch, and it provided an opportunity to talk to other RVers.

After driving onto one of the many vehicle decks and locking the vehicle, it was just a couple of flights of stairs to the passenger deck. There is no external power available to run your fridge, and you definitely should not leave it running on gas. Passengers cannot access the vehicle decks during the journey, so pack an overnight bag.

Not being experienced cruise passengers, and only expecting the Spirit to fulfil its basic use as a car ferry, we were surprised at the variety of great facilities on board for the traveller. Bistro and a la carte restaurants, bars, a playroom, games arcade, many lounges, a complimentary movie theatre, tourist information and booking service, gift shop, and a gaming lounge – and all in excellent condition.

We enjoyed an evening meal, a couple of drinks while watching the real footy and a walk around the deck before calling it a night. The Ocean Recliner lounge is controlled by a keypass door for security and comfort, and is comfortable, quiet and warm. The 160 or so recliners are allocated on an individual basis when booked so there is no need to fight for a prime spot with an ocean view. Unfortunately we were allocated directly behind the World’s Loudest Snorer (WLS) and after a couple of hours of persevering with ear plugs we moved across the lounge to unoccupied recliners. Blankets and pillows are supplied and comfortable clothes are a must.

A wakeup call was announced at 5.40 am after which we enjoyed a light breakfast at the cafeteria. Berthing occurred right on schedule at 6.00am and disembarkation began at 6.30am. The unloading process is a lot quicker than loading – we were on the road out of Devonport by 7.00am.

Four very enjoyable weeks later we were back lining up at Devonport for the trip back to the mainland. For the purpose of reporting to you, the reader, we had enquired a couple of days previously on the availability of a cabin upgrade as an alternative to the recliners. Unfortunately, the standard cabins were fully booked and we couldn’t justify the cost of a premium cabin just for the sake of unbiased reporting.

Legerwood, WWI tree carvings

The loading process at Devonport mirrored exactly the process experienced a month earlier in Melbourne, right down to the two hours waiting in queues. Besides a win on the pokies, the only notable difference on the entire return journey was a comfortable night’s sleep, no doubt due to the fact that WLS wasn’t on board.

So we hope that this story is of some help to members deciding whether or not to take their own RV to Tasmania. We read somewhere that if you plan to stay in Tasmania for longer than 10 days it will work out cheaper to take your own rig. We say go for it, it’s a great way to start yet another adventure on the road, and it definitely is a journey in itself.

Port Arthur

Oh, and Tassie was great, but don’t try to see it all in 10 days. There is plenty to see and do if you make the time and the place is absolutely full of CMCA accredited RV Friendly Towns. We thoroughly enjoyed our month abroad in the familiarity of our own RV.

For all the information you require to make a voyage to the Apple Isle visit www.spiritoftasmania.com.au.

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Written: Sun 01 Feb 2015
Printed: February, 2015
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BARRY AND JENNY ROWLANDS Q77955 and Spirit of Tasmania