Open Air Theatre, Broome

What a journey we have been on! Over the past 12 months we had regularly been joined in our travels by good friends Faye and Daryll, each of them happy Talvor owners and each of whom had completed their first ‘big lap’ the previous year. We were the ‘Talvor Trio’, thundering down highways in formation, eagerly exploring all that Australia has to offer.

From Darwin, Faye and Daryll were going down ‘the centre’, but our plan was to head west. So we parted company with Faye after visiting the Devils’ Marbles, whilst Daryll continued on with us to Darwin to await the arrival of friends who were to accompany him through ‘the centre’.

I’ve relied on Daryll’s knowledge and experience as a long term motorhome traveller, but it was time for us to take off the ‘training wheels’, we would now truly be doing it alone, and through the notorious wet season to boot.

Before we headed west we visited the Adelaide River War Cemetery, a beautifully maintained and peaceful memorial. Then it was one last dip in the Katherine hot springs, located just behind our caravan park. This would be our third and final hot spring indulgence, for this trip anyway. It was a great way to prepare the body for the big miles of driving ahead.

And big miles they were. Knowing we had some country to cover, we pushed hard on the first day, passing the amazing red  escarpments of Victoria River, past Timber Creek and setting down at Big Horse Creek in Gregory National Park. It was a place of many boab trees and quite a special place for Aboriginal tribes. It was interesting to observe them as they sat down close to us, women separate from men. Some things are the same even after all these years.

It was also here where we really appreciated the creature comforts of our RV as the local amenities were quite unsavoury. Thank heavens for the onboard toilet and shower.

On day two we passed incredible red rock formations in temperatures of 39.5 degrees. What a relief to make it to the Lake Argyle Caravan Park and experience their famed infinity pool. We failed to understand why the pool was so cold with such hot, outside temperatures, but there was little hesitation in cooling off and appreciating the stunning vista that surrounded us as sunset fell. The views over Lake Argyle, the biggest man-made lake in Australia, were magical.

On to Kununurra the next day, but not before a visit to the Durack Homestead, close to the van park, relocated from the original site, which is now covered by Lake Argyle and reconstructed as a museum.

Behind our Hidden Valley Tourist Park in Kununurra was the Mirima National Park, where we viewed the amazing rock formations locally known as the ‘mini Bungle Bungles’. Unfortunately, the area  had recently been set on fire and like much of the north, was blackened with an acrid smell still in the air.

Whilst in the area we also drove part way to Wyndham to view The Grotto, another spectacular gorge, which although dry at this time, had us speculating as to how it might be transformed in the wet season. We did not take the 140 steps down to the pool as Brigitte had been suffering vertigo that morning.

On to Mary Pool ‘freedom camp’ on the Mary River, via Halls Creek, where we were surprised by the large number of campers. By early morning the area was almost deserted. It was clear people were making their run south to avoid the ‘wet’ which was brewing.

One of the highlights we had been anticipating was a visit to the Geikie Gorge just out of Fitzroy Crossing. A modestly priced, guided river cruise through the Devonian limestone reef provided a photographic smorgasbord of rock overhangs, fresh water crocs and nesting martens. Despite the 45 degrees it was a most enjoyable experience.

Thank goodness our reverse cycle air conditioning was working well in the RV, it kept the nights cool for sleeping despite the heat of the day lingering well into the night.

Another big drive west and in to Derby we arrived, where they have the biggest tides in Australia. It was fascinating to sit and watch the variation between high and low and the speed of the change.

It was whilst in Derby that Brigitte experienced one of her biggest highlights thus far. Being keen art lovers, we had the opportunity to visit the Mowanjum Art Galley where they carry on the tradition of Wanjina art. This was something special.

Of course you could not visit Derby without a trip to the famous Boab Prison Tree. It was also a stark reminder of the horrific treatment of early Aboriginals.

Finally arriving in Broome, we settled in at Roebuck Bay where we were to experience a most enjoyable week. This was one of our longest stays thus far and longer than what we had planned. There was just so much to see.

Broome Sunset

Having experienced the dinosaur trail in the earlier part of our travels, we could not miss the opportunity to view the dinosaur prints that are only visible at low tide at certain times in the month in Broome. Thought to be 130 million years old, they are at Gantheaume Point. Our timing in regard to low tides was perfect, but it took us two attempts to locate them, climbing down treacherous rocks and skinning limbs on the way, with an eye on the tides all the way.

Boab Prison Tree

The grazes were bathed in the natural pool known as Anastasia’s Pool. There  is quite a chivalrous story to the naming of the Pool. The Pool was modified by a former lighthouse keeper, to make it easy for his wife, Anastasia, to access.

Anastasia suffered badly from arthritis and found relief in the warm water of the Indian Ocean which filled the Pool at high tide.

We were really taken by the colours of Broome. The rock colours, the stunning sea colours and clear skies, made it picture perfect.

I was becoming a keen photographer as the journey unfolded, and Broome gave both of us many opportunities to test our skills. Up at the crack of dawn for the sunrises, the aforementioned rock colours, then the magical sunsets at Cable Beach, not to mention the famed camels, had us clicking away frantically. Thank goodness for digital cameras.

Catherine Hot Springs

Other highlights were the Sandfly Circus, a children’s community circus, which performed whilst we were in town,  the local markets and pearl displays and of course the famous Broome open air cinema, featured in the Australian movie, Bran Nue Dae. Picture yourself sitting back in a deck chair on a balmy evening in the open air, as a jet plane roars overhead, approaching the nearby landing strip; it couldn’t be more ‘strine’.

A most enjoyable and relaxing week, but now we were off to Eighty Mile Beach in our trusty RV as the temperature hovered around 43.5 degrees.

Geikie Gorge

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Written: Mon 01 Apr 2013
Printed: April, 2013
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